Generally, the process is to choose either Cayuga, Seneca, Canandaigua, or Keuka lake and plan two or three nights per lake depending on when you arrive and if there's enough time to make a day visiting the winery's. Drive up one side of lake and hit a bunch of winery's. Make sure to pack a cooler with cheese, meats, and crackers along with any support equipment like cheese knife, cutting board, etc. Many of these places are very small and you'll be sitting at picnic tables. Stay at the town on the North end of lake. Next day drive back via the opposite side to the Southern town. Depending on the lake you've chosen you won't be able to visit all the winery's on either side of the lake. If one looks crowded, it's no big deal to just continue on the road to next one. I've never actually counted but I'm sure there many more winery's on the west side of the lakes than the east side but the east side ones seem to be smaller and less crowded.
Also, there are many really nice hiking trails with water falls in the area if you need to give your liver a break. If you choose Seneca Lake you'll find some good BBQ at Nickel's Pit in Watkins Glen. If it's crowded ask to sit at the bar and you'll get in right away.
Do not expect Napa Valley as it's not even close, but it is very nice in it's own way.
