Question for turfgrass majors or anyone who is a lawncare guru...

[Ranger Dan]

We have two dogs who are out on the yard a lot and we have decided not to use weed killers. Our yard has gradually been overcome by weeds. I want to do plant grass in bare spots and do some overseeding throughout the whole yard. I've heard that weeds go dormant earlier in the fall and begin growing later in the spring than grass. My hope is to put down some grass seed and get it to fill in the bare spots and make it more difficult for the weeds to come back.

When trying to look up the difference between ryegrass, fescue, and bluegrass, I stumbled upon something called "micorrhizal fungi". It apparently creates a network of roots that allow nutrients and water to be shared. Of course, this is just my lay person understanding. My question is, if I have a good amount of weeds in my lawn, would this actually help the weeds just as much as the desirable grass? Are there other additives that I should put down when I broadcast the grass seed?

 

[PSU95alum]

I'd go for a registered grass. Something like Carl Spackler's Bent. It's a hybrid. A cross, ah, of Bluegrass, Kentucky Bluegrass, Featherbed Bent, and Northern California Sensemilia. The amazing stuff about it is, that you can play 36 holes on it in the afternoon, take it home and just get stoned to the bejeezus-belt that night on the stuff.

Cannonball!!!

 

[jim cummings]

We have two dogs who are out on the yard a lot and we have decided not to use weed killers. Our yard has gradually been overcome by weeds. I want to do plant grass in bare spots and do some overseeding throughout the whole yard. I've heard that weeds go dormant earlier in the fall and begin growing later in the spring than grass. My hope is to put down some grass seed and get it to fill in the bare spots and make it more difficult for the weeds to come back.

When trying to look up the difference between ryegrass, fescue, and bluegrass, I stumbled upon something called "micorrhizal fungi". It apparently creates a network of roots that allow nutrients and water to be shared. Of course, this is just my lay person understanding. My question is, if I have a good amount of weeds in my lawn, would this actually help the weeds just as much as the desirable grass? Are there other additives that I should put down when I broadcast the grass seed?

Weeds like to grow wherever there are bare spots. I would actually aerate and then overseed. In the late winter I would put down a premergence pesticide so when the weeds do grow up through the soil they will die once they reach the surface.

All of this doesn't matter if your neighbors don't take care of their weeds.

You probably just got done with crabgrass.

 

[Class of 67]

Check water requirements for your grass options. You don't want to be a slave to the water sprinkler during dry spells or have to install an irrigation system. Fescues work best in the northeast for that reason. Overseed every September (you're stretching it this late). Aeration, dethatching and treatment with a composted product like LeafGro promotes seed contact with soil, thus promoting germination. Fertilize mid- to late fall to promote root growth into the winter. Starting in spring, mow high (about 3 inches) and regularly to help protect soil from hot summer sun and limit weed seed germination. I never use mass application of herbicide or pesticide. Close mowing is a common mistake. Also, leave grass clippings on the lawn. They introduce nitrogen into the soil as they decompose. At first sign of new weeds, remove by hand if easy or spot spray with herbicide to minimize any lingering presence of poison. Corn gluten is a safe alternative for blocking weed seed germination. This natural product should be spread over the lawn in spring just before weeds begin to grow. The timing sign for this is when the forsythia blossom. Attentive maintenance as described on an annual basis will gradually reduce weeds. I've followed these practices for almost 30 years and receive compliments for my lawn. I've read that a lawn with at least 60% weeds should be killed off and started from scratch. Of course, that's impossible to do without mass application of Roundup or similar product. Hopefully, you're lawn is not in that category.

 

[RochLion]

From this summer, and last, I've had section of my lawn die and become dry and compacted. I know if I rake, overseed and fertilize the seed won't take solid root. Do I need to aerate first or add some composted material and let it sit for a while before overseeding. Thanks.

 

[jim cummings]

From this summer, and last, I've had section of my lawn die and become dry and compacted. I know if I rake, overseed and fertilize the seed won't take solid root. Do I need to aerate first or add some composted material and let it sit for a while before overseeding. Thanks.

Aerate, then seen, then compost even though that's a lot of compost.

 

[katchthis]

Go get Lesco seed, at Site One, just off Centerville road in Lancaster. Premium seed and advice. Just did a similar project as this summer was hell on the lawn even with a sprinkler system.