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OT: Buying a ride mower

JoeParulz

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Jul 23, 2001
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I'm making the switch for the from a push mower to ride mower.

Does anyone have any tips on the best brand, best place to buy, and any tips I could utilize? I have a little less than an acre if that matters.

Is John Deere the best most reliable brand? Are Lowes or Home Depot a good place to start?
 
I'm making the switch for the from a push mower to ride mower.

Does anyone have any tips on the best brand, best place to buy, and any tips I could utilize? I have a little less than an acre if that matters.

Is John Deere the best most reliable brand? Are Lowes or Home Depot a good place to start?
If you have kids whom you hope to share the duties- go to any dealer and buy a used traditional tractor. I've had a Cub Cadet- but have others who swear by Deere or Husqvarna. Look for one that has low hours- likely a residential machine. Should be really cheap. I've got 2.6 acres and a 20 year old 54 inch deck that was top of the line in 2002 (paid over $8k) and it has been well maintained. My dealer offered me $300 for it. Said they can't sell the "old fashioned" models...everyone wants zero turns. Again- I'd much prefer a zero turn too- but if you have kids helping out- that is more risky and complicated than it needs to be. Bonus is that they get more comfortable behind the wheel which helps when learning to drive! Good luck!
 
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I'm making the switch for the from a push mower to ride mower.

Does anyone have any tips on the best brand, best place to buy, and any tips I could utilize? I have a little less than an acre if that matters.

Is John Deere the best most reliable brand? Are Lowes or Home Depot a good place to start?
There are true John Deere mowers and the cheaper brand of John Deere sold at the big box stores. JD realized that many people were buying the cheap Murray type riding mowers and got into that market. They are good for a couple years, not many more. Good true John Deere mowers last 10-15 years. Look at a JD dealer and you'll quickly see the difference. I mow about 5 acres and my JD Zero Turn does the job with minimal breakdowns. I had a true JD 212 and my son still uses it. It is 32 years old.
 
I'm making the switch for the from a push mower to ride mower.

Does anyone have any tips on the best brand, best place to buy, and any tips I could utilize? I have a little less than an acre if that matters.

Is John Deere the best most reliable brand? Are Lowes or Home Depot a good place to start?

If you go with John Deere, the big box stores only carry the lower end models. You will have to go to a dealer if you want a mid-upper level model.
 
I wold go with a John Deere or Husquavarna. Some of the MTD made tractors are hit or miss.
 
I'm making the switch for the from a push mower to ride mower.

Does anyone have any tips on the best brand, best place to buy, and any tips I could utilize? I have a little less than an acre if that matters.

Is John Deere the best most reliable brand? Are Lowes or Home Depot a good place to start?
go to the local guy. HD Lowes etc do not service them, they tell you to go the local guy which if he has time, will generally put you at the back of the line.
 
Agree with the above- a close buddy married a young lady whose father worked in the JD factory in Davenport, IA. They LOVE their tractor! I learned the hard way that any work needed that is beyond your abilities should be done at the dealer. I tried to save a few nickels by using a local indy shop and had awful results. Forget the box stores- buy new or used from a reputable dealer- hopefully with some sort of warranty. Like having a good Doctor, Dentist, Electrician, Plumber and Tax Person- your tractor service shop matters!
 
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Toro. Most commercial guys here use them. MOST. Draw your own conclusion. I have a 42” zero radius Toro with 19 hp Kohler engine. Absolute beast. Cuts 3/4 acre in less than an hour. Nine years old with not a single visit to the shop. Only things replaced... oil/filters, one battery, one spark plug. Good luck.
 
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1) Buy a BMW
2) Have trailer hitch installed
3) Buy Trailer
4) Drive to John Deere dealer
5) Buy John Deere mower
6) Buy ramps to get mower on and off trailer
7) Load Mower
8) drive home
9) Get mower off trailer
10) Fuel it up
11) Puff your chest
12) Cut Lawn
 
I'm making the switch for the from a push mower to ride mower.

Does anyone have any tips on the best brand, best place to buy, and any tips I could utilize? I have a little less than an acre if that matters.

Is John Deere the best most reliable brand? Are Lowes or Home Depot a good place to start?

You need to lift the hood and look at the engine. You want a Koehlers or Honda engine, not a Briggs and Stratton. It should have an oil filter and oil pump, not an oil slinger. Given the size of your lot, you don't need anything too big or fancy.

Do you live in the snow belt? If so a snow blade or snow blower attachment (best) are great to get, but you buy those separately. You'll also want wheel weights and tire chains for those winter activities, along with a good battery tender. Have fun.

BTW, if you have a flat lawn and only want to mow you can get one of those Forrest Gump riders and be perfectly fine while saving a fair amount of money.
 
There are true John Deere mowers and the cheaper brand of John Deere sold at the big box stores. JD realized that many people were buying the cheap Murray type riding mowers and got into that market. They are good for a couple years, not many more. Good true John Deere mowers last 10-15 years. Look at a JD dealer and you'll quickly see the difference. I mow about 5 acres and my JD Zero Turn does the job with minimal breakdowns. I had a true JD 212 and my son still uses it. It is 32 years old.
I've had a lower price JD mower for about 10 years. Bought at an Ace Hardware store, and they delivered it. Came with a Kohler engine which I don't know if they still come with those or the Briggs engines. It's been maintained pretty well and still does the job on a half acre suburban lawn. Does fine with the pull behind plugger in the fall. I hear good things about Cub Cadets also.
 
Nothing burns like a Deere.

I had 3 JD tractors over a period of 30 years. First was fine, wanted one with a little more HP.

One Sunday after mowing and putting things away, cable TV went out (box was in the garage). Opened the door to reset and found the garage filled with smoke. Tractor electrical system shorted out and started a fire, burned up gas can but the garage was so air tight, the fire never was able to vent and mostly smothered itself. The fire insurance investigator came to look things over. First thing he said was "nothing burns like a Deere". He mentioned that he had seen a warehouse filled with burned Deere.

Went out and bought another and still have it after about 14 years. I did have a problem blowing belts up on the mower deck. Turns out pully's worn out causing the belts to break. Took a while for the shop to figure that one out surprisingly. I believe the problem is now solved.

I would buy another but only from a farm dealer just for the service aspects.
 
The John Deere at the big box stores are no better than a craftsman or any other bargain brand and I would not buy. I cut over two acres of hilly lawn, and had a Simplicity that lasted over 20 years and survived two kids before becoming unreliable. I replaced it with a 300 series Deere. It’s been been great so far.
 
Toro here- I don't know if the big box stores sell them or not, we bought it from a Toro dealer- Kohler engine and hydrostatic drive
 
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No need to buy a John Deere all you're doing is paying for the green paint. They are not significantly better and in some cases worse than many other models. Generally just regular old Craftsman ones work just as well. I grew up on a farm mowing 7 Acres of grass and others lawns. Used all sorts of farm tractors and implements and John Deere ones are no better than anything else. The only advantage might be the maintenance deal that they give you.
 
I'm making the switch for the from a push mower to ride mower.

Does anyone have any tips on the best brand, best place to buy, and any tips I could utilize? I have a little less than an acre if that matters.

Is John Deere the best most reliable brand? Are Lowes or Home Depot a good place to start?
If you want a Deere do not buy from Lowe’s or Home Depot. Stay away from the 100 series, they are throwaway tractors. Go to the Deere dealer. I bought a x570 last year and added the electric mulch kit and could not be happier. Cuts like a champ and very durable.
 
The new ego...

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No need to buy a John Deere all you're doing is paying for the green paint. They are not significantly better and in some cases worse than many other models. Generally just regular old Craftsman ones work just as well. I grew up on a farm mowing 7 Acres of grass and others lawns. Used all sorts of farm tractors and implements and John Deere ones are no better than anything else. The only advantage might be the maintenance deal that they give you.

Yup, JD is overrated, there are many commercial-grade mowers that are equal or better. The decision comes down to how much money you want to spend, engine brand, transmission/hydraulics, and whether the deck is stamped or welded. I haven't looked at electric choices, but there might be some decent alternatives to look at these days.
 
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Take it from an card-carrying obnoxious small-engine outdoor equipment yard-care asshole who knows his way around John Deere products.... i’ve hooked relatives and friends up with the right equipment over 25yrs.... likewise have wrenched & flipped a few ...

a) the “Big Box” Deere units are indeed “real” John Deere residential-duty units and are exactly the same units sitting in the local Deere dealer’s showroom ( formerly L, LA, D, and E series... they are now badged as “S“series for MY21 ).... are they as good as the x300? no, the X has the Kawasaki twin, but they’re closer to the x300 than you think

b) the entry-level Deere units are built by John Deere people in a non-union factory in Tennessee... contrary to internet rumors they are not built by MTD.... the Dealer-only premium X300 x500 x700s are produced in the Deere Horicon WI plant...

c) entry-level Deere units are fine for those who have a typical flat 1/2 acre tract-home not needing ground-engaging implements ... they are certainly not garden-tractors... i would not recommend a blade nor a snowblower on these as that non-servicable k46 rear axle is not stout enough for that extra weight and stress... keep them as simple riding mowers and you’ll be fine, even with the lumpy Kohlers and Briggs & Stratton that are bolted to these. ( yes, I’ve owned Kohler and Briggs machines and they’re okay... but the Kawi is another echelon altogether)

d) real men step up to Kawasaki engines in the premium X series... my X300 and my LX280 have them and they are superior to all others (x Onan and Yanmar, but those are available in the five-figure machines and that’s a totally different convo) ....

e) the x300 will get you the Kawasaki, but you’re stuck with the flaccid K46 rear end they put in all of the lower level L/LA/D/E/F’s .... the higher-level x300s get you into a K58 and that might give you a boner, but that’s not much more than a K46 with lipstick... bad boys want the K62 which gives you the ability to change the oil in the hydro and pull shit.... the k72’s can yank stumps ...you’d need to pony up to the x500 or find a clean older LX 277 & up (which is what I did....but I have an acre plus I mow a 1.5mi walking trail behind my property with some grade changes... this task has been getting the best of the K46 and I better step up)

f) i’ve owned an LA110 (Briggs) which was one of the Tennessee built entry level units with the Briggs & Stratton... was a low hour unit I found at an estate sale about 15yrs ago and I stole it for $700.... served me well for a few years until i bumped into the x300 that was an off-season steal for $900... the entry level deere units paint sucks, particularly the yellow decks which seem to rot fast, the gauge steel isn’t what it used to be and Deere skimps on the bogey-wheels and their support structure, have had to do some welds on my older units .... many of those JD zero turn units you see at Lowes & HD come out of that same Tennessee factory with those same shitty yellow decks... if it doesn’t have a “7-iron” green deck, that JD zero-turn is a poseur

g) just because you step up to the “x” series (x300) Don’t believe for a minute that you are getting a super heavy duty rig.... like I said earlier, youre getting the same shitty k46 rear end and the 42” deck that goes to the entry level.... these decks aren’t as robust as the 48” decks on the X series..... in my opinion, all of the decks on the entry level machines are trash.... but still better than any Craftsman , Murray, etc...

h) the value of Deere is when you need parts.... dealers carry them and you will need them, even for out-of-production stuff like snow-blowers.... always wonder what the hell other brand-owners do....

i) i’m a Deere snob.... zero respect for anything not green and yellow.... legacy Cubs (particularly IH era Cubs) were stout but the current MTD Cubs = shit.... i’ve looked my way around Husqvarna in stores and have not been impressed , neighbor has a zero turn Husq and I’ve had to wrench on it a couple times to get him back to his garage.... no thanks.... Honda? Too pricey and I do not see enough of ‘m to think there’s parts-support for their older units - i’m probably wrong though.... all I know is my LX 280 is 20yrs old and I can get everything.... will be restoring my nephew’s LX277 and with a coyple hundred bucks into some cosmetics and I can sell it for $1500

j) i’m a traditionalist... no zero-turns for me... was hauling garbage-can sized chunks of honey locust to my fire pit area from my neighbors property yesterday, would not try that with a rear end thats hooked up to pumps for steering responsibilities, the ones that can handle that are commercial grade units that are much better than the ones you see your neighbors running... zero-turns are cheaper for manufacturers to produce, but they aren’t priced that way...
 
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Yup, JD is overrated, there are many commercial-grade mowers that are equal or better. The decision comes down to how much money you want to spend, engine brand, transmission/hydraulics, and whether the deck is stamped or welded. I haven't looked at electric choices, but there might be some decent alternatives to look at these days.

JD envy prompts some to make claims of “overrated”.... for common residential applications JD is tough to beat...

now there are commercial / pro guys who might have an argument with Scag, Ferris, Bad Boy etc, but a guy who has been getting by with a 21” pushmower is not gonna be looking at those .... figured it’s only a matter of time until the BWI dickwaggers come out and suggest the guy get a Hustler ... same people who suggest a $1,800 smoker for someone asking about a Hibachi
 
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I have a lower end JD. No issues other than a couple belt replacements and repaint the deck.

I thought about an Ariens for my next mower. But heard Scag is excellent.
 
JD envy prompts some to make claims of “overrated”.... for common residential applications JD is tough to beat...

now there are commercial / pro guys who might have an argument with Scag, Ferris, Bad Boy etc, but a guy who has been getting by with a 21” pushmower is not gonna be looking at those .... figured it’s only a matter of time until the BWI dickwaggers come out and suggest the guy get a Hustler ... same people who suggest a $1,800 smoker for someone asking about a Hibachi

lol... Seems like you're the one doing all the dickwagging around here.
 
The John Deere at the big box stores are no better than a craftsman or any other bargain brand and I would not buy. I cut over two acres of hilly lawn, and had a Simplicity that lasted over 20 years and survived two kids before becoming unreliable. I replaced it with a 300 series Deere. It’s been been great so far.
Simplicity are very good but at a higher price than the garden store options.
 
I have a lower end JD. No issues other than a couple belt replacements and repaint the deck.

I thought about an Ariens for my next mower. But heard Scag is excellent.
Scags are excellent but pricey. I have a cheetah. But premium might be over kill for the OP’s acre requirement.
 
Scags are excellent but pricey. I have a cheetah. But premium might be over kill for the OP’s acre requirement.
I haven't priced a Scag, but that's pretty much what I was told as well. I only mow just shy of an acre, so I'm not looking for anything commercial grade for my next mower.
 
The best brand is Gravely. The post about two different qualities are accurate. Remember....all brands are as good as you treat them. 60 years ago Troy Built was top.....now they are a discount brand. You get what you pay for. Buying at the Big Box saves you a few bucks till you need service.
 
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John Deere x590 - we use it hard and have had no problems in 4 years. I've bought a bigger tractor and a JD Gator from same dealer in past 4 years.
Love John Deere.
 
John Deere x590 - we use it hard and have had no problems in 4 years. I've bought a bigger tractor and a JD Gator from same dealer in past 4 years.
Love John Deere.

dude, an X590 is about $9,000

if the guy has a flat, 1/2 to 3/4 up to an acre parcel he’s got several reasonable options that wouldn’t be as stupid as killing a fly with a x590 sledgehammer

a) new S series from HD/Lowes/JD retailer... $2000 gets you an s130 with 42” deck.... $2500 for an s170 with the 48” deck
the good: it’s new.... mfr warranty. The not-so-good: the “quick change” oil change gimmick is reason enough to skip this line entirely... 42” on 48” Edge decks offer only 2 bogey (anti-scalping) wheels vs. a proper 4 or 5 (Deere being chintzy) Briggs engines are not my preference even though the ones spec-built for JD are better than those they supply to other mfrs, they are good enough ( the newer Briggs units in my snowblower and 6hp leaf blower are actually pretty damn good) ... better have flat property cuz the TuffTorq k46 is not serviceable and will eventually give up the ghost with the heat generated by hilly demands or yanking around heavy loads... flat property you should be fine.... option A would be my least-attractive option, based on what you’d get for that spend on the pre-owned market would be MUCH more stout

b) used x300 with anywhere btw 400-800 hrs... Should be less than $1500 for an x300 in pristine condition.... some clowns try to list these for much higher but I don’t want to deal with “I KNOW WHAT I HAVE” shmucks..... many x300 can be found in well maintained condition as these continue to be very popular models... make sure the hood is not cracked, if it’s cracked the machine should be listed considerably cheaper ... seat cracked (like every JD rider)? No big deal replacements are $140 and they go a long way to make a beater look better....OEM replacement hood though is $500 alone... if its the original owner and you can see what type of terrain he applied it to and that his garage is in tidy nick - you can score a deal .... these machines started around $3300 new.... if you find a higher level x3xx with the 48” 48c 4-bogey deck (better built) that’s a huge score.... skip the water-cooled Kawasakis unless you earn a living by mowing, they’re sublime but there a lotta bits in there that can ruin your day if they fritz... not a huge fan of all wheel steer (x304, x324 etc ) but some guys really like’m... to me it’s more mechanical oily bits that needs maintaining... rode a x534 testing for my neighbor last week and was taken aback by how wiggly rear-wheel-steer is, but guys swear by them once you’re used to it, apparently.... when shopping used, among the things i do is to ask to run a compression test on each cylinder to check ring wear, some guys get snippy when you ask to pop out the plugs... 120# + is what i’m looking for on the gauge... look for owners who have extra sets of good blades and mulching kits , rear baggers (worth $250 alone) , and any owner who can furnish the original paperwork/records/manuals gets a reach-around from me... option B is what I’d suggest.... an X500 would be even better, but these are $3000 used ... it is a hoss, would take up more room in your shed

c) older used Deere like a LX277, LX280 (skip the water-cooled Lx278 and LX288) are worth their weight in gold, I find them when older guys are moving to FLA or opting for a (gasp) lawn service.... again, fragile hoods ... these will have kawasakis.... look for one where the oft-missing front bumper (green thermoplastic) is present, good indicator of how hard a unit was flogged... missing bumpers are only a cosmetic flaw and a replacement is $80 on ebay... ask if the tires hold air... these tires will dry-rot with age, replacement tires Will set you back $140.... check the filters, oil (obviously).... when you test drive, drive it on grass (not just the driveway) and uneven surfaces to check for steering slop (excessive play) which is indicative of worn front axle bearings /bushings (easy fix)... deck should have no repairs... i check spindles for wear, a set of spindles on a 3 blade 48c deck will run you $100 just for the pieces.... look for any damage to the fan over the rear hydro unit... likewise for any obvious leaks on the hydro housing... other good older (early 2000s models which are built like tanks) are GX and GT series which are REAL garden tractors.... LT series are merely okay as these are all Briggs / Kohler but are unappealing to me accordingly... but a mint one would be all you need (LT 166 / LT180) and these can be found easily below $900.... the smaller STX 38 models are acceptable only if they are mint and have the preferred Deere yellow deck....these are a Kohler 12.5hp which are pretty decent... the black deck STX 38s are trash as they were sourced from MTD and are a much less quality gauge steel... these should be super cheap around $500 but they were real Deere and built quite well even though they were tasked as an entry level rider...

d) pre-owned L/LA/D/E series (these are essentially the same, minor cosmetic differences) .... lightly used examples are out there, if the owner keeps a tidy garage and you see no red flags (transaxle whine / struggles , low compression, loose / worn bearings and spindles , oil burn / blow-by , deck issues) you can get one for less than $800... enjoy it for 5-7 seasons or so then sell it for $300

feel free to update me on what you find, If you tell me where you are, I can search Craigslist / FB marketplace in your area for candidates.... best time to buy has ended , everyone will be looking soon so you’d need to be prepared to strike like a cobra
 
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Yes - I should have said x590 is more than you need. I was just piling on to "buy JD from a dealer".

I did get an EVH black and white striped series recently. "High five!"
 
Scag 61’ deck, Turf Tiger zero turn. Thing is an absolute beast. I think it’s faster then my first car (‘74 Chevy Vega, so that isn’t saying much). Actually more of a commercial mower, but bought it used for about $4k. Engine only had about 500 hours on it (I only put about 75 a year on it) and still runs good. I get it serviced each winter/early spring, which I would highly recommend. Koehler engine, which has been great. Good luck!
 
I bought a used Craftsman on Craigslist that gave me years of hassle-free use...just annual maintenance. I resold it last year when I moved.
 
Thanks, Great info in this thread.

This might be a stupid question but when these ride on mowers break down and you need service how do get them to the shop to be repaired? Can you find people to come out and fix them like when your dryer breaks down?
 
Thanks, Great info in this thread.

This might be a stupid question but when these ride on mowers break down and you need service how do get them to the shop to be repaired? Can you find people to come out and fix them like when your dryer breaks down?

I bought my JD from a farm dealer. They picked it up and delivered when repaired.
 
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I got lucky when we bought our house. My pap's neighbor was moving at the same time and gave him an old riding mower. A 1974 wheel horse with a Kohler engine. He changed the oil, plugs, points, and battery and it fired right up. That was a great mower until it started leaking oil and we couldn't figure out why. It had a rear discharge deck. I hadn't seen one of those before.

I ended up getting a John Deere LA 145 with a 48 inch deck and a Briggs and Stratton motor. It's not a bad mower and I haul dirt and stone in the cart I got with it with no issues.

John Deere did a terrible job painting the deck. I was cleaning it once with my pressure washer and blew all the paint off it. I had a friend repaint it for me.
 
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