ADVERTISEMENT

Way OT: What is everyones go to power Tool brand?

The Northfield HD models are the ones...not new because those are $20k machines. I regularly see them for sale used in the $3k to $6k range. Newly refurbished go for a bit more.

They are the best and you’re right about the mass. 2200 lbs for the 16 HD!

The Hammer combo machine is great. I have coveted the A-41 at times, but my dream shop has a 22” or so planer in it. I can dream!

There used to be a local cabinet maker with a 36-in Timesaver who’d let me pay him to use it. He ran both sides of my Split Top Roubo bench through it. Fun project and the real envy in my shop...all Benchcrafted hardware...soft maple with Bubinga trim.

Don’t get me started on planes and hand tools!

I envy you in a good way!


Right now, this is about all I am making...



We may have to start another thread regarding handtools/ handplanes.

Handworks 2021 will be September 3rd and 4th. I may just head down there. There are a few things I want to pick up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WestSideLion
Have used all manner of Dewalt power tools (corded and cordless) for 20 years now and have never been disappointed. Compared to other brands that some friends have had I'd say the Dewalt batteries have lasted longer than all the others, if you're looking for cordless.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TheBigUglies
There are two tools that Dewalt makes that I like. Their (old) planer and a radial arm saw.



I have this, but don't use it, because I need dust extraction. I don't really have the space for a good setup. That and I'd have to sound dampen the basement shop.
if you go back and check, the DeWalt over the mountain invented the radial arm saw. They were doing production work for somebody and came up with the idea. Now that said, the last I looked the only tool DeWalt didnt make was the radial arm saw. I wonder if the sliding miter saw really took its place.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WestSideLion
if you go back and check, the DeWalt over the mountain invented the radial arm saw. They were doing production work for somebody and came up with the idea. Now that said, the last I looked the only tool DeWalt didnt make was the radial arm saw. I wonder if the sliding miter saw really took its place.
It's a safety thing. Some feel it's too easy to cut your arm off with a Radial Arm saw. The safer, you could probably do the same thing with a miter saw if you tried.o_O
 
It's a safety thing. Some feel it's too easy to cut your arm off with a Radial Arm saw. The safer, you could probably do the same thing with a miter saw if you tried.o_O
Those old radial arm saws are terribly dangerous. I buy lumber up at MacBeath in Berkeley, CA. They rough cut it to length on a big radial so I can get it into my car. I wince at how fast those guys zip through 12” wide 8/4 lumber. One could very easily cut more than planned. OSHA likely agrees.
 
I envy you in a good way!


Right now, this is about all I am making...



We may have to start another thread regarding handtools/ handplanes.

Handworks 2021 will be September 3rd and 4th. I may just head down there. There are a few things I want to pick up.
Yeah. I just counted up my Lie-Nielsen planes. I stopped at 11. I have some older Record models and others too. It’s a crazy expensive hobby.
 
Yeah. I just counted up my Lie-Nielsen planes. I stopped at 11. I have some older Record models and others too. It’s a crazy expensive hobby.
Yes it is. I only have about six to seven planes from them. Four non specialty planes. I hope to order some spokeshaves from them soon. I've used their bronze one before. It is IMHO an incredible little tool.
 
Last edited:
it seems I cant use a mother x%^^&ing plane to save my life!
Patience and practice. Most of us try to take way too much of a cut. Assuming the blade is sharp, try setting up the plane. Back the blade out till it won't cut. Now advance the blade forward in small increments. Check to see if it is protruding by looking down the sole, and then rubbing a small block of wood against the plane. Keep advancing in small increments till you start to get wispy shavings. Also check to ensure the blade is taking an equal cut across the width of the plane.

Also, consider rubbing some wax (candle, beeswax or parafin (canning wax) on the sole. It helps the plane glide and will have minimal to no impact on the finish of the board you are planing.
 
Jeff Miller has some good tips on body mechanics and planing, etc. I will post it if I can find it. David Charlesworth has a ton if info, and of course Peter Sellers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sluggo72
Patience and practice. Most of us try to take way too much of a cut. Assuming the blade is sharp, try setting up the plane. Back the blade out till it won't cut. Now advance the blade forward in small increments. Check to see if it is protruding by looking down the sole, and then rubbing a small block of wood against the plane. Keep advancing in small increments till you start to get wispy shavings. Also check to ensure the blade is taking an equal cut across the width of the plane.

Also, consider rubbing some wax (candle, beeswax or parafin (canning wax) on the sole. It helps the plane glide and will have minimal to no impact on the finish of the board you are planing.
I believe the youtube video below is the best I've ever seen in terms of flattening a board using a hand plane. It gives you a great sense of the geometry of planing a surface.

Two other keys to flattening lumber that I've found:
1. Setup of the plane is crucial. If you don't have your planes set up correctly, you'll never straighten a board (e.g., blade needs to be straight in the frog).
2. Like you said, light cuts and constantly check your progress. Sometimes, all it takes is a shaving or two and if you go three shavings, you've created a new issue you have to fix. As you said, patience is key - you cannot just keep planing and planing and expect good results. Each action you do needs to be thought out and have a purpose.
 
  • Like
Reactions: STPGopherfan
I believe the youtube video below is the best I've ever seen in terms of flattening a board using a hand plane. It gives you a great sense of the geometry of planing a surface.

Two other keys to flattening lumber that I've found:
1. Setup of the plane is crucial. If you don't have your planes set up correctly, you'll never straighten a board (e.g., blade needs to be straight in the frog).
2. Like you said, light cuts and constantly check your progress. Sometimes, all it takes is a shaving or two and if you go three shavings, you've created a new issue you have to fix. As you said, patience is key - you cannot just keep planing and planing and expect good results. Each action you do needs to be thought out and have a purpose.

Regarding the bold, wise words Sir!

Good call on the video. Mike is a great guy. He likes to joke a lot. His woodworking school is about a half hour outside of the twin cities in Chisago(?) Anyway, I kind of like Mike's no nonsense style. I hope to take a class with him again soon. i think he is still a member of the Minnesota Woodworkers guild.

I highly recommend that anyone that is new to woodworking, or is getting reacquainted with the hobby, check out their local guild. Some even rent out tools. Stating the obvious, that is a great way to learn about the tool before committing to buying it. Or not?

Shameless plug for Mike: Mike Siemsen's School of Wood He is mostly a period furniture guy, but he really helps you understand the how's and why's of what you do.
 
it seems I cant use a mother x%^^&ing plane to save my life!
One more thing. Consider a low angle plane to start out with. That frog thing can be a bit much to figure out at first. I really have only one plane with a frog (a high angled one at that) It is a 4 1/2 smoother. My jointer and jack plane are both low angle. If you can only handle one plane (besides a block plane) I'd recommend a low angle jack plane (#5/ 6 plane) It is very versatile.



https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/low-angle-jack-plane?path=handplanes&node=4063

Veritas makes some nice planes as well. There are many others out there, but be prepared to open your wallet wide. i try not to look at Bridge City toolworks. Great stuff, but some is very pricey. I think Woodcraft carries some Clifton planes. I don't own one, but I've heard good things about them and they aren't too bad price wise.

If you have the time and don't mind auctions/ flee markets, ebay, etc. Old Stanley tools can be great and sometimes easy to restore. An old Stanley plane with a Hock blade is a winning combo. He also has plane building kits.


If you call out to Fort Bragg, don't be surprised if he answers the phone. He is one of many great Krenov disciples.

David Finck is another good resource:

Amazon product ASIN 140272022X
 
  • Like
Reactions: sluggo72
Apologizes to the OP. Obviously, some of us are passionate about our tools.

Going back to the original point(s) I've been pleasantly surprised by my Harbor Freight Drill press. A little run out in the shaft, but decent. I guess it kind of proves a point about cheap tools being elevated to very good with a quality blade/ bit. I drilled perfect holes with a Freud precision Shear Forstner bit and the harbor freight drill press.
 
Thanks guys!! My FIL left me some planes, and from the looks of them, they look like good ones. Why he had them I have no idea!!
 
Practice, learning wood grain direction and sharpening. I also sprung for the L-N high angle frogs and scraping planes which really help in working with tight and swirly grain.
You made me think of one of the cheapest tools of all. A basic card scrapper. That, a file and a hardened steel rod for sharpening, and you can get finishes that rival or surpass any sandpaper.

https://www.czeckedge.com/pages/contact-us

https://www.priceyourjob.co.uk/beginners-guide-to-woodworking.php/

 
I believe the youtube video below is the best I've ever seen in terms of flattening a board using a hand plane. It gives you a great sense of the geometry of planing a surface.

Two other keys to flattening lumber that I've found:
1. Setup of the plane is crucial. If you don't have your planes set up correctly, you'll never straighten a board (e.g., blade needs to be straight in the frog).
2. Like you said, light cuts and constantly check your progress. Sometimes, all it takes is a shaving or two and if you go three shavings, you've created a new issue you have to fix. As you said, patience is key - you cannot just keep planing and planing and expect good results. Each action you do needs to be thought out and have a purpose.
The panty hose trick is super helpful in determining grain direction. A shave or two in the wrong direction and you definitely have another issue to fix.
 
The panty hose trick is super helpful in determining grain direction. A shave or two in the wrong direction and you definitely have another issue to fix.
The good thing is you can always burn your mistakes. ;) Seriously, that is what is great about hand tools. They bite, but not as hard as a router or a table saw. Most you can recover from and nobody will notice unless you tell them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WestSideLion
Outside of Festool (and you will never find them on a job site EVER), I would (in order) go Hilti, with a tie between Milwaukee and Makita. It’s really about the batteries. DeWalt makes some great stuff, but sometimes it’s hit or miss. There is “pro” grade like Hilti, than Pro-Sumer, like Mikita and Milwaukee, Bosche, etc.., and then home use, Craftsman, Ryobi etc. Snap-On’s are also excellent, but you are limited to mechanical use (mostly true for Hilti also).

I was a Makita guy back the day and switched over to Bosch for about 3 years, not a fan. Now I have a mix of Milwaukee and Mikita.

Hitachi made great durable stuff and just bought Metabo. I would try the Hitachi/ Metabo. Might want to give that a look as well. Do your research on the Hitachi/Metabo before you buy because they are both now marketed under the Hitachi brand, but use different marketing terms to distinguish between the two line.

I would also not discount the Harbor Freight line of tools. Bauer and Hercules. They are dirt cheap and a pretty good, and an excellent bargain. When they go to shit, you have no regrets and buy a new one.
who said you would never see them on a job site...

 
Festool is common on any high-end cabinet install or renovation job site. Less so on a big commercial or residential build site.

When details and accuracy are key, Festool is often the choice.
The other consideration that someone mentioned earlier in regard to their basement shop is how Festool designs tools with dust collection as a primary design consideration. This can be a huge deal for a contractor that needs to work in a finished home vs a framer who can blow dust wherever without regard for making a mess.
 
On a safety note, when I was a kid, I got my finger tip sucked into my dad's jointer. Gone in a heartbeat. Fricken blood everywhere. It was horrific. Dad picked me up and my finger tip and they rushed me to the family Dr who sewed it back on. 50+ years later it's still traumatic. To this day, my jointer still gives me the willies.
If you don't respect it, it will bite you.
My employee has a big wood shop for employee use (I know, I know). One of the shop stewards ran his finger tips over the jointer during a Shop Safety Training class. I kid you not. Luckily, he was ok overall and only removed about 1/16”. Let’s just say that class of trainees likely didn’t come back to use the shop.
 
My employee has a big wood shop for employee use (I know, I know). One of the shop stewards ran his finger tips over the jointer during a Shop Safety Training class. I kid you not. Luckily, he was ok overall and only removed about 1/16”. Let’s just say that class of trainees likely didn’t come back to use the shop.
I watch Perkins Brothers Builders on Youtube. They have a channel devoted to building homes, tips, tricks, tools, etc. One of the brothers lost multiple fingers in a jointer accident earlier this year. Awful stuff.
 
who said you would never see them on a job site...

You and Westside are co
After my accident, my dad would introduce me to friends of his who had accidents with shop tools. Dad was trying to impress upon me how dangerous they are. One guy shook my hand and my dad asked me if I noticed anything about his hand. He didn’t have any finger nails. Upon closer inspection he had lost 4 fingers down by one digit. He lost them in a jointer too.
well this makes me less remorseful for selling my 6” jointer a couple of years ago, which I miss about once a year. Just got my 10yo daughter a 12x8 Minnie wood lathe. She asked for it for Xmas. With my girls it is always supervised and safety comes first. If I catch them without safety glasses on any project, it’s 20 push-ups and three laps around the house.
 
After my accident, my dad would introduce me to friends of his who had accidents with shop tools. Dad was trying to impress upon me how dangerous they are. One guy shook my hand and my dad asked me if I noticed anything about his hand. He didn’t have any finger nails. Upon closer inspection he had lost 4 fingers down by one digit. He lost them in a jointer too.
Kinda OT but I played against a guy (football ) that had lost an arm in the corn picker.
 
On a safety note, when I was a kid, I got my finger tip sucked into my dad's jointer. Gone in a heartbeat. Fricken blood everywhere. It was horrific. Dad picked me up and my finger tip and they rushed me to the family Dr who sewed it back on. 50+ years later it's still traumatic. To this day, my jointer still gives me the willies.
If you don't respect it, it will bite you.

WIse words!

Wow. My wife is an OT-CHT. She will not let me get table saw. She's seen too many injuries like the one you suffered. You are a living testimony for Saw stop. Too bad they can't expand that technology to jointers I try to be mindful and use jigs and push sticks. for my router table. Cuts on small pieces of wood are a no-no now if not jigged up somehow. Even with hand tools I try to remember "two hands on the tool", and clamp it down.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Nittany Ned2
My employee has a big wood shop for employee use (I know, I know). One of the shop stewards ran his finger tips over the jointer during a Shop Safety Training class. I kid you not. Luckily, he was ok overall and only removed about 1/16”. Let’s just say that class of trainees likely didn’t come back to use the shop.
Dream crusher... ;) When I finally get a jointer planer, I believe that it will have the euro gard. Safer? I have been told that it is.
 
WIse words!

Wow. My wife is an OT-CHT. She will not let me get table saw. She's seen too many injuries like the one you suffered. You are a living testimony for Saw stop. Too bad they can't expand that technology to jointers I try to be mindful and use jigs and push sticks. for my router table. Cuts on small pieces of wood are a no-no now if not jigged up somehow. Even with hand tools I try to remember "two hands on the tool", and clamp it down.
SawStop was a must for me. Thankfully, I don’t do so much milling that I become numb to it. That helps me stay focused and as safe as possible.

I use push sticks and stock guides religiously. I try never to get my fingers within 3 in of a blade. What scares me most is a blade or bit break that sends metal flying. That and losing a handheld router or saw with the power stopper in the on position.
 
I have been meaning to ask this one for awhile now on this board because I am sure there are going to be some very particular answers.
If money is not an option, who do you guys go with? I have some Milwaukee tools that have held up relatively well, but I never know what to go with when I get to the isle and end up just randomly picking.

To name a few.
Milwaukee, Makita, Craftsman, Dewalt, Rigid, Ryobi, Husky, Skil, Bosch, Bostitch, Kobalt, Porter Cable.. I am sure I missed plenty.

Whats everyones go to and why? If money isn't an option for around the house work.

I have been a Ryobi user for years. No problems with them and pricing is right.
 
I believe the youtube video below is the best I've ever seen in terms of flattening a board using a hand plane. It gives you a great sense of the geometry of planing a surface.

Two other keys to flattening lumber that I've found:
1. Setup of the plane is crucial. If you don't have your planes set up correctly, you'll never straighten a board (e.g., blade needs to be straight in the frog).
2. Like you said, light cuts and constantly check your progress. Sometimes, all it takes is a shaving or two and if you go three shavings, you've created a new issue you have to fix. As you said, patience is key - you cannot just keep planing and planing and expect good results. Each action you do needs to be thought out and have a purpose.
As I listen to Mike's video, It reminds me that sometimes the best feedback when planing is your ears. Something about the sound of a well tuned plane smoothing wood.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sluggo72
SawStop was a must for me. Thankfully, I don’t do so much milling that I become numb to it. That helps me stay focused and as safe as possible.

I use push sticks and stock guides religiously. I try never to get my fingers within 3 in of a blade. What scares me most is a blade or bit break that sends metal flying. That and losing a handheld router or saw with the power stopper in the on position.
I have the OF 1400. That thing has taught me to respect it at all times. The OF 2200 is a beast. I've been thinking about that router for flattening slabs. Admittedly that thing scares me.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WestSideLion
I have been a Ryobi user for years. No problems with them and pricing is right.
I have a circular saw of theirs that I've used to cut Hardie board (Cement board) with the freud diablo blade , it did well. The only problem was the dust port. It kept falling off.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WestSideLion
Got to meet and know some champion Wildlife carvers when I lived in New Orleans in the early 80's and their creations were incredible. The thumbs of the old carvers looked like hot dogs boiled for an hour and was actually kind of a resume to them. Power tools don't leave knotches
 
WIse words!

Wow. My wife is an OT-CHT. She will not let me get table saw. She's seen too many injuries like the one you suffered. You are a living testimony for Saw stop. Too bad they can't expand that technology to jointers I try to be mindful and use jigs and push sticks. for my router table. Cuts on small pieces of wood are a no-no now if not jigged up somehow. Even with hand tools I try to remember "two hands on the tool", and clamp it down.
I had a near kickback on a table saw 2 weeks ago. I was ripping a walnut board and it stopped pushing through the cut. As soon as I felt it bind, I shut the saw off with my knee (so I could hold onto the board with both hands). As it turned out, the board must have been under a lot of tension and the kerf totally closed up after the cut. Luckily, I had a riving knife installed and the kerf closed up on the riving knife rather than the blade. The board had totally wedged itself shut on the knife.

I took the board and finished the cut with my Disston and only later really reflected on how bad that could have been. Thank goodness for riving knives. Oh, and I had also been using microjig grripper push blocks - I find them outstanding for both the table saw and the router table.
 
ADVERTISEMENT
ADVERTISEMENT