Way OT: What is everyones go to power Tool brand?

[STPGopherfan]

I had a near kickback on a table saw 2 weeks ago. I was ripping a walnut board and it stopped pushing through the cut. As soon as I felt it bind, I shut the saw off with my knee (so I could hold onto the board with both hands). As it turned out, the board must have been under a lot of tension and the kerf totally closed up after the cut. Luckily, I had a riving knife installed and the kerf closed up on the riving knife rather than the blade. The board had totally wedged itself shut on the knife.

I took the board and finished the cut with my Disston and only later really reflected on how bad that could have been. Thank goodness for riving knives. Oh, and I had also been using microjig grripper push blocks - I find them outstanding for both the table saw and the router table.

Great to know. I don't have a table saw, but I do have some black walnut that has been air drying for a couple of years now. It was a gift from the guys that felled the tree. Long story, but the neighbor that decided that the tree needed to come down. Beautiful tree when it was living. The scraps I got were from the canopy. Anyway, I am hoping to use some of that soon. I have no idea how it is going to behave.

Glad you had that riving knife! Glad you also handled the situation well. I've seen video where a table saw threw a board through a wall like nothing.

I bought a micro jig gripper a few years ago. Great accessory.

I may have to ask later about your Disston. I want a pistol grip dovetail saw. There are a few I've been looking at. Bad axe and Lie-Nielsen are ones I've also been looking at. I have a couple of nice Japanese pull saws, and one Glen-Drake, but the grips are not as easy to register in your hand. The Glen-Drake and the Japanese saws are easier to start though.

 

[dmk228]

Great to know. I don't have a table saw, but I do have some black walnut that has been air drying for a couple of years now. It was a gift from the guys that felled the tree. Long story, but the neighbor that decided that the tree needed to come down. Beautiful tree when it was living. The scraps I got were from the canopy. Anyway, I am hoping to use some of that soon. I have no idea how it is going to behave.

Glad you had that riving knife! Glad you also handled the situation well. I've seen video where a table saw threw a board through a wall like nothing.

I bought a micro jig gripper a few years ago. Great accessory.

I may have to ask later about your Disston. I want a pistol grip dovetail saw. There are a few I've been looking at. Bad axe and Lie-Nielsen are ones I've also been looking at. I have a couple of nice Japanese pull saws, and one Glen-Drake, but the grips are not as easy to register in your hand. The Glen-Drake and the Japanese saws are easier to start though.

The Disston I have is some sort of relic from the distant past that I bought at a garage sale. I need a rip saw and it was filed sharp with rip teeth. I cleaned some rust off and it cuts beautifully. I am sure any of the saws you are looking at are outstanding, but in this, I got a lifetime saw for about $10. I can’t tell you a whole lot about it other than it cuts like butter.

As far as trees and lumber go, I’m also no expert however my understanding is that the tension and twisting of the board I experienced is likely either the result of improper drying or coming from a part of the tree that was under tension as it grew, such as a tree that had grown crooked and the wood became tension due to stress inflicted by not growing straight. I found this particular board in a pile of random reclaimed wood at a local lumber dealer. It was rough sawn, but I could tell it was stunning underneath...and it is.

 

[PAgeologist]

I have been meaning to ask this one for awhile now on this board because I am sure there are going to be some very particular answers.
If money is not an option, who do you guys go with? I have some Milwaukee tools that have held up relatively well, but I never know what to go with when I get to the isle and end up just randomly picking.

To name a few.
Milwaukee, Makita, Craftsman, Dewalt, Rigid, Ryobi, Husky, Skil, Bosch, Bostitch, Kobalt, Porter Cable.. I am sure I missed plenty.

Whats everyones go to and why? If money isn't an option for around the house work.

I've used almost every brand you've listed in some fashion (corded/cordless tools, own/helping out friends and family, etc). I think they're all quality tools. Dewalt, you're definitely paying more for the name.

I have a Porter Cable circular saw that has been thoroughly abused by cutting stone for retaining walls. It still runs perfectly fine.

 

[#1PSU]

Tommy Silva and Norm Abrams?

WTF

 

[WestSideLion]

Yes, I was in Mississauga at a woodworking show two years ago. I stopped at the Felder group booth. Man was that hard to walk away without buying one.

You’d be A LOT lighter after that transaction. Last I looked, the A-41 with helical, bed extensions and base/lever was around $8000.

 

[WestSideLion]

I have the OF 1400. That thing has taught me to respect it at all times. The OF 2200 is a beast. I've been thinking about that router for flattening slabs. Admittedly that thing scares me.

I have the 1400 and 1010. I used that 1400 to make my split top roubo and never wanted for any power or ability. The 2200 is huge and I think you lose a lot of versatility because of that. In the end, buy a big bit and take light passes. The 1400 is going to be fine.

 

[WestSideLion]

I had a near kickback on a table saw 2 weeks ago. I was ripping a walnut board and it stopped pushing through the cut. As soon as I felt it bind, I shut the saw off with my knee (so I could hold onto the board with both hands). As it turned out, the board must have been under a lot of tension and the kerf totally closed up after the cut. Luckily, I had a riving knife installed and the kerf closed up on the riving knife rather than the blade. The board had totally wedged itself shut on the knife.

I took the board and finished the cut with my Disston and only later really reflected on how bad that could have been. Thank goodness for riving knives. Oh, and I had also been using microjig grripper push blocks - I find them outstanding for both the table saw and the router table.

Lucky. That’s happened to me. Sometimes you rip a long board and the tension does odd things. It’s tempting to try and push through it on a big saw. I see guys on the old iron forums who use big beasts that were made pre-diving knife. No thanks.

 

[sluggo72]

to beat a dead horse here's Pitt grad using some DeWalt, some Milwaukee and of course a bunch of Festools!!
Pretty sweat....

 

[liex26]

Late to the thread, but as a contractor I'll give my input.

For my work tools I use Dewalt. The main reason WAS that many other guys I work with used them so batteries could be shared at work. Since then though Dewalt has came out with the 60v Flex line which gives us much more powerful tools. Also the batteries are backwards compatible.

However, for the homeowners and DIY guys I highly recommend Ridgid. If you buy their tools in a kit with batteries then they have a LIFETIME guarantee on the tool and the batteries. Batteries made today are much higher quality than before, but you still see bad ones now and then, and being able to swap it with a new one is very valuable.

I've been in the trades for more than thirty years and used pretty close to every brand out there. Outside of the cheap brands like Craftsman, they all do the job well enough. For most people an impact, and a saw would be sufficient, but for others they might want a brand with one of many specialty tools. Look around and see what you might want.
We are entirely cord and hose free. Cordless table saw, cordless worm drive, and recently cordless roofing guns. It's something I never thought I'd see, but the only cords that get used are the ones that plug in the chargers.

 

[STPGopherfan]

You’d be A LOT lighter after that transaction. Last I looked, the A-41 with helical, bed extensions and base/lever was around $8000.

The A-41 would be my dream, but realistically I am looking at the A-26, or A31 in two to three years?

 

[WestSideLion]

The A-41 would be my dream, but realistically I am looking at the A-26, or A31 in two to three years?

Understood and makes sense. My logic has always been that I want a planer size about 2x that of my jointer. I also have a drum sander that doubles up, but it's generally nice to be able to joint and glue two 10-in boards and then plane that panel. My dream is restoring that Northfield 12-HD planer and then springing for a newer Powermatic helical 22" planer. I would be a lot poorer, but very happy.

 

[STPGopherfan]

Understood and makes sense. My logic has always been that I want a planer size about 2x that of my jointer. I also have a drum sander that doubles up, but it's generally nice to be able to joint and glue two 10-in boards and then plane that panel. My dream is restoring that Northfield 12-HD planer and then springing for a newer Powermatic helical 22" planer. I would be a lot poorer, but very happy.

You are thinking correctly. I'd love that as well, but part of me likes that if I have a project that needs something rather large flattened, that I could reach out to one of the shops/ lumber sellers and have them run it through their Timesaver (large belt sander). Keeps the relationships alive.

I think that is what I like most about woodworking. It is one hobby where most everyone likes to share knowledge, and where appropriate resources.

 

[STPGopherfan]

I have the 1400 and 1010. I used that 1400 to make my split top roubo and never wanted for any power or ability. The 2200 is huge and I think you lose a lot of versatility because of that. In the end, buy a big bit and take light passes. The 1400 is going to be fine.

Thanks! That would free me up to get either the 1010 or the 700? The 1010 would be mostly for the LR-32. I use the 1400 for that now. It would be nice to have the 1010 for that and trim work. I plan on building many Euro boxes so it would come in handy. Still trying to get the true 32 system down.

http://davelers.com/32mm/Basics/168.html

 

[STPGopherfan]

Late to the thread, but as a contractor I'll give my input.

For my work tools I use Dewalt. The main reason WAS that many other guys I work with used them so batteries could be shared at work. Since then though Dewalt has came out with the 60v Flex line which gives us much more powerful tools. Also the batteries are backwards compatible.

However, for the homeowners and DIY guys I highly recommend Ridgid. If you buy their tools in a kit with batteries then they have a LIFETIME guarantee on the tool and the batteries. Batteries made today are much higher quality than before, but you still see bad ones now and then, and being able to swap it with a new one is very valuable.

I've been in the trades for more than thirty years and used pretty close to every brand out there. Outside of the cheap brands like Craftsman, they all do the job well enough. For most people an impact, and a saw would be sufficient, but for others they might want a brand with one of many specialty tools. Look around and see what you might want.
We are entirely cord and hose free. Cordless table saw, cordless worm drive, and recently cordless roofing guns. It's something I never thought I'd see, but the only cords that get used are the ones that plug in the chargers.

Ha! You sound like my brother in-law. He said (at the time) that he liked the track saw, but he wasn't buying anything with a cord. He's in the trades, so it makes total sense for him. Perhaps some day I will look into a cordless circular saw. It would come in handy for building outdoor stuff.

 

[WestSideLion]

Thanks! That would free me up to get either the 1010 or the 700? The 1010 would be mostly for the LR-32. I use the 1400 for that now. It would be nice to have the 1010 for that and trim work. I plan on building many Euro boxes so it would come in handy. Still trying to get the true 32 system down.

http://davelers.com/32mm/Basics/168.html

I have the LR-32 and use the 1010 for that. I also mill rabbets at 90 degrees for jewelry box tray dividers, etc. The 1010 is great on a rail. It’s small and well suited to intricate work.

 

[STPGopherfan]

I have the LR-32 and use the 1010 for that. I also mill rabbets at 90 degrees for jewelry box tray dividers, etc. The 1010 is great on a rail. It’s small and well suited to intricate work.

Thanks! I've used my 1400 for everything. It is very heavy to use on it's side and sometimes for the rail. Now I know I will be revisiting that router. I really like the LR 32 System. I only have the 1400 rail. I wanted to get the longer rail, but i needed most every mm for 4' x 8' sheets. The longer LR 32 was just a little too short. Especially because it's unsafe to have the saw start off of the rail.

 

[WestSideLion]

Thanks! I've used my 1400 for everything. It is very heavy to use on it's side and sometimes for the rail. Now I know I will be revisiting that router. I really like the LR 32 System. I only have the 1400 rail. I wanted to get the longer rail, but i needed most every mm for 4' x 8' sheets. The longer LR 32 was just a little too short. Especially because it's unsafe to have the saw start off of the rail.

That’s exactly right. The 1400 is heavy and clunky for delicate work, but it hogs out deep mortises on branches and other big projects like a champ.

 

[BW Lion]

to beat a dead horse here's Pitt grad using some DeWalt, some Milwaukee and of course a bunch of Festools!!
Pretty sweat....

View embedded media

Thanks for sharing. Two things are clear to me ....Westminster College in New Wilmington PA is good at wasting money and they should have hired the guy with the shop next door

 

[81b&w]

If I were buying stationary tools tomorrow I would most likely buy Jet. Not sure what anyone here is making but I guess it becomes like a car thread and we dream. I've made and sold around a thousand picture frames and shadowboxes over the years as extra money and payed for all of my tools with proceeds. I have shadowboxes that sell every year on Lang's Sporting Auction and appreciate and stand up nicely, did the mat cutting to. Hard to leave a legacy anymore but it feels good now. Good wood is the key! I've used mostly Tiger Maple and figured Cherry and Walnut. Don't ever waste your time woodworking with out really quality wood to start with. Beautiful wood draws you in and then you understand and see the vision

 

[WestSideLion]

If I were buying stationary tools tomorrow I would most likely buy Jet. Not sure what anyone here is making but I guess it becomes like a car thread and we dream. I've made and sold around a thousand picture frames and shadowboxes over the years as extra money and payed for all of my tools with proceeds. I have shadowboxes that sell every year on Lang's Sporting Auction and appreciate and stand up nicely, did the mat cutting to. Hard to leave a legacy anymore but it feels good now. Good wood is the key! I've used mostly Tiger Maple and figured Cherry and Walnut. Don't ever waste your time woodworking with out really quality wood to start with. Beautiful wood draws you in and then you understand and see the vision

We have a lot in common. I make jewelry boxes, music boxes and humidors. I also dabble I’m furniture (I made our dining room table, end tables for living room, Mid-century desk for my wife, etc.).

I’m all about using interesting and rare woods. The desk for my wife is high-grade quilted maple with instrument-grade Cocobolo drawer fronts. It’s a striking contrast and beautiful.

I’ve been taking my time building a Deco style TV lift cabinet. It’s veneered in Macassar Ebony with an intricate pattern across the four front doors. The interior is bright Beech, which stays true to that Deco contrast style with light/dark colors.

I have quite a bit of exotic wood in my shop, including ~50 pounds of Gaboon Ebony and about the same amount of Brazilian Rosewood. I try to buy anything Dalbergia when available. It’s not long for this world.

 

[The Spin Meister]

Ok, would love to see some pics of all these projects. Wondering if any of you guys are good enough to have built The Land Grant Trophy!

Seriously, would love to see some pics, maybe even on a separate thread so as not to detract from the OP.

 

[HazletonLion]

 

[STPGopherfan]

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd just bring this thread back to life.

Any one picked any new tools of interest?

I decided to take the opportunity to pick up a few miscellaneous hand tools(woodworking). Hoping to give them a test run when they arrive. A block plane to replace my Stanley sweetheart reboot (gave it to a friend), a router plane and spokeshave to replace an old Stanley that I dropped on a concrete floor and broke. I also bought a couple of rasps (Auriou). Boring stuff, but I tried the rasps and man do they cut nice.

Might have to ask the AKB how to setup the router plane.

Just hope I have time to use them before College Football season starts.

 

[WestSideLion]

Rather than start a new thread, I thought I'd just bring this thread back to life.

Any one picked any new tools of interest?

I decided to take the opportunity to pick up a few miscellaneous hand tools(woodworking). Hoping to give them a test run when they arrive. A block plane to replace my Stanley sweetheart reboot (gave it to a friend), a router plane and spokeshave to replace an old Stanley that I dropped on a concrete floor and broke. I also bought a couple of rasps (Auriou). Boring stuff, but I tried the rasps and man do they cut nice.

Might have to ask the AKB how to setup the router plane.

Just hope I have time to use them before College Football season starts.

Do you subscribe to Patrick Leach’s monthly tool list? Lots of great hand tools there.

I just bought the Viking drill press. I haven’t gotten it inboxed just yet, but the demo videos are crazy cool.