Way OT - but here goes ..

[BeefSkull]

I live is eastern PA and struggling with my lawn .... not a green thumb. So wonder is there any good websites anyone has used or followed. Or any advice tried and true processes or products ....Clearly I can google ...”caring for my lawn” ... but I find this board cuts to the chase. I believe aerorating then fertilizing is coming up and then seeding. So that is the reason I ask .... once again thanks in advance ...

Let’s go lions !

 

[Pardlion]

I live is eastern PA and struggling with my lawn .... not a green thumb. So wonder is there any good websites anyone has used or followed. Or any advice tried and true processes or products ....Clearly I can google ...”caring for my lawn” ... but I find this board cuts to the chase. I believe aerorating then fertilizing is coming up and then seeding. So that is the reason I ask .... once again thanks in advance ...

Let’s go lions !

https://plantscience.psu.edu/research/centers/turf/extension/factsheets/renovation

 

[Obliviax]

I live is eastern PA and struggling with my lawn .... not a green thumb. So wonder is there any good websites anyone has used or followed. Or any advice tried and true processes or products ....Clearly I can google ...”caring for my lawn” ... but I find this board cuts to the chase. I believe aerorating then fertilizing is coming up and then seeding. So that is the reason I ask .... once again thanks in advance ...

Let’s go lions !

My lawn rules:

• Fertilize Once a season, Ideally a service as they are better at weed control but if too much, get a sprinkler and do it yourself in late march, Late May, Early August and at last cut (halloween?).
• Cut weekly, often more frequently in the fast growing spring season (May-June).
• Cut the grass as high as you can, people often cut their lawn too short.
• Use a mulch mower, do not pick up the cut grass. This is, unless, you let it get too long and after cutting have piles of clippings on top of the lawn.
• Water, water, water. Get an in-ground sprinkler if you can afford it. If not, there are some good timers to attach to a hose but its a lot of remembering, moving and general work. People often have bare spots under a tree and it is often because, even in rainy times, the rain never makes it to the ground. Need to water every other day. Do this in the morning (6am to 7am) or in the evening hours (6pm to 8pm). Do not water at night (can create a fungus) or in the middle of the day (water can burn the grass and evaporates too quickly).

I planted my own lawn seven years ago and had one of the nicest in my 'hood. I cut my lawn and two other people's lawns (a rental property and a disabled single mothers). I made the mistake of using one push mower and contaminated my lawn with crap from the single mother's. I will be killing my lawn week after next and planting anew, at least in the front.

 

[Aloha T]

I live is eastern PA and struggling with my lawn .... not a green thumb. So wonder is there any good websites anyone has used or followed. Or any advice tried and true processes or products ....Clearly I can google ...”caring for my lawn” ... but I find this board cuts to the chase. I believe aerorating then fertilizing is coming up and then seeding. So that is the reason I ask .... once again thanks in advance ...

Let’s go lions !

Before you do anything, have a good soil test done. That will give you good recommendations on how to proceed...

 

[Chickenman Testa]

I let it fend for itself - damn, needy lawn!

Get off my lawn, lawn!

 

[KnightWhoSaysNit]

For deforested area, I highly, highly recommend a combination of stone and gravel, with perhaps just a few islands of mulched flower beds. If there is tree cover, then dead leaves provide the perfect ground cover mulch.

"Lawns" belong in two places: Golf courses and pastureland. They are otherwise gigantic wastes of time and money.

 

[BudatPSU]

Pave it and paint it green.

 

[Aloha T]

For deforested area, I highly, highly recommend a combination of stone and gravel, with perhaps just a few islands of mulched flower beds. If there is tree cover, then dead leaves provide the perfect ground cover mulch.

"Lawns" belong in two places: Golf courses and pastureland. They are otherwise gigantic wastes of time and money.

How about Beaver Stadium, too?

 

[KnightWhoSaysNit]

How about Beaver Stadium, too?

No. I think the Beav is grass only because it has been tradition and the Agronomy Department wants some status. Otherwise the artificial stuff available today is probably better -- certainly easier to maintain each week during the season. It is a far cry from the original Astroturf of the 60s.

I did leave out one other nice benefit to getting rid of unnecessary grass -- less use of harmful pesticides. Once your neighbor uses it, the insects move to your place, then you have to use it too.

I live in a heavily wooded area with few other houses in the area. I protect my house from insects using glue traps, and sometimes a repellant like dishsoap. Otherwise, the insect population is contained by the natural food chain. Toads roam just outside my door, and we probably have bats. I don't even have trouble with mosquitos, despite being near a stream that can become stagnant and eventually dry up.

 

[Aloha T]

No. I think the Beav is grass only because it has been tradition and the Agronomy Department wants some status. Otherwise the artificial stuff available today is probably better -- certainly easier to maintain each week during the season. It is a far cry from the original Astroturf of the 60s.

I did leave out one other nice benefit to getting rid of unnecessary grass -- less use of harmful pesticides. Once your neighbor uses it, the insects move to your place, then you have to use it too.

I live in a heavily wooded area with few other houses in the area. I protect my house from insects using glue traps, and sometimes a repellant like dishsoap. Otherwise, the insect population is contained by the natural food chain. Toads roam just outside my door, and we probably have bats. I don't even have trouble with mosquitos, despite being near a stream that can become stagnant and eventually dry up.

Pesticides??? Get the soil right to grow a good cover crop and you never need pesticides...football was meant to be played on grass!!!

 

[KnightWhoSaysNit]

Pesticides??? Get the soil right to grow a good cover crop and you never need pesticides...football was meant to be played on grass!!!

Most lawns are treated with pesticides. Can't say what they do in a stadium, but I would think that grass to be a bit more protected.

Replacing lawns with a good cover crop is not a bad idea though.

 

[psuro]

I gotta guy. He takes care of it.

 

[Tom McAndrew]

I live is eastern PA and struggling with my lawn .... not a green thumb. So wonder is there any good websites anyone has used or followed. Or any advice tried and true processes or products ....Clearly I can google ...”caring for my lawn” ... but I find this board cuts to the chase. I believe aerorating then fertilizing is coming up and then seeding. So that is the reason I ask .... once again thanks in advance ...

so many variables. does it get a lot of shade, or a lot of direct sunlight? As @Aloha T mentioned, a soil test is helpful, though you can usually do pretty well without one.

It's your free time, and you can spend it anyway that you like. The older I get, the less I want to spent time and/or money on my lawn.

Instead of getting into all the variables, or all the expensive ways you can make your lawn perfect, I'd suggest the following general technique, which also will not cost you a lot of time or money:

Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed

You'll need to purchase an inexpensive applier (sold at most garden and hardware stores -- same place you can but the Weed & Feed). You may need to purchase multiple bags (it depends on how large your lawn is). You would apply it in the coming weeks. (Do so in the morning, so that it sticks to the dew. Don't apply it if rain is in the forecast in the next few days.) You won't notice instant results. The 1st noticeable results will be next spring/summer, when many of the weeds will be gone, and the grass should look fuller and healthier.

Best of luck

 

[Aloha T]

so many variables. does it get a lot of shade, or a lot of direct sunlight? As @Aloha T mentioned, a soil test is helpful, though you can usually do pretty well without one.

It's your free time, and you can spend it anyway that you like. The older I get, the less I want to spent time and/or money on my lawn.

Instead of getting into all the variables, or all the expensive ways you can make your lawn perfect, I'd suggest the following general technique, which also will not cost you a lot of time or money:

Scotts Turf Builder Weed & Feed

You'll need to purchase an inexpensive applier (sold at most garden and hardware stores -- same place you can but the Weed & Feed). You may need to purchase multiple bags (it depends on how large your lawn is). You would apply it in the coming weeks. (Do so in the morning, so that it sticks to the dew. Don't apply it if rain is in the forecast in the next few days.) You won't notice instant results. The 1st noticeable results will be next spring/summer, when many of the weeds will be gone, and the grass should look fuller and healthier.

Best of luck

Sorry, but I was a Turfer at PSU so I don't espouse shortcuts or middle of the road remedies...

 

[Frabjous]

Plant weeds and let the grass take over.

 

[Cosmos]

I live is eastern PA and struggling with my lawn .... not a green thumb. So wonder is there any good websites anyone has used or followed. Or any advice tried and true processes or products ....Clearly I can google ...”caring for my lawn” ... but I find this board cuts to the chase. I believe aerorating then fertilizing is coming up and then seeding. So that is the reason I ask .... once again thanks in advance ...

Let’s go lions !

Good advice below. I'm originally from WePA. Now live in North Texas 9 months of the year. Spend the rest of the months camping, usually in the Big Bend area. Anyway, based on my experience PA lawns are a cake walk compared to Texas! Just weed & feed and walk away whereas we must contend with heat and drought conditions. That said, how's the condition of your turf? If it's only 'tired' then try top-dressing with a compost/topsoil blend. It's like giving your grass an adrenaline shot. I do it every other year. Healthy turf crowds out the weeds, thereby precludes the need for herbicides.

 

[83wuzme]

Agree with compost advice. It will improve the soil and won’t run off like bagged products.
If you are really serious, do soil testing. I can’t imagine inadequate rain being a problem this year if you live the the NE.

 

[OldTiredLion]

For deforested area, I highly, highly recommend a combination of stone and gravel, with perhaps just a few islands of mulched flower beds. If there is tree cover, then dead leaves provide the perfect ground cover mulch.

"Lawns" belong in two places: Golf courses and pastureland. They are otherwise gigantic wastes of time and money.

 

[PS4814]

Depends how far gone your yard is and how large it is. If it's mostly weeds and a large plot of land I'd recommend hiring a local lawn company to get it in shape. Will take multiple treatments and potentially a full growing season or two but it's worth the money it to leave it up to the professionals. I'm in the Lehigh Valley and would recommend Turf Pro as they've kept my acre lot looking fantastic even though it's bordered by 1 neighbor who thinks his yard is grass but it's actually entirely weeds and another who has a combination of grass and weeds. Yes you could do it yourself, and potentially save money, but if you're willing to pay for the convenience just hire a professional. Just don't pay for extra services like lime or grub treatments until you've investigated if you actually need them done.

Going to echo what others have said that you should leave your lawn long - mower deck should be 3 inches at the minimum to prevent weeds from germinating and mow with a mulching blade (potentially multiple times per week).

Edit: With the amount of rain we've had in Eastern PA this year if you're struggling to grow grass just a shot in the dark but I'm thinking soil issues b/c I've never had to mow so often in August as I have this year.

 

[BeefSkull]

Thanks everyone .... great advice. Gonna give it a try .... in fall and spring and see what happens this time next year !!

 

[anon_1eeb2b426hv3y]

Depends how far gone your yard is and how large it is. If it's mostly weeds and a large plot of land I'd recommend hiring a local lawn company to get it in shape. Will take multiple treatments and potentially a full growing season or two but it's worth the money it to leave it up to the professionals. I'm in the Lehigh Valley and would recommend Turf Pro as they've kept my acre lot looking fantastic even though it's bordered by 1 neighbor who thinks his yard is grass but it's actually entirely weeds and another who has a combination of grass and weeds. Yes you could do it yourself, and potentially save money, but if you're willing to pay for the convenience just hire a professional. Just don't pay for extra services like lime or grub treatments until you've investigated if you actually need them done.

Going to echo what others have said that you should leave your lawn long - mower deck should be 3 inches at the minimum to prevent weeds from germinating and mow with a mulching blade (potentially multiple times per week).

Edit: With the amount of rain we've had in Eastern PA this year if you're struggling to grow grass just a shot in the dark but I'm thinking soil issues b/c I've never had to mow so often in August as I have this year.

That’s what I’ve now got on one portion of our property (the two sections are fully separate). It went from probably 60/40 grass to weeds 5 years ago to now 60/40 weeds and some sections are almost entirely weeds. Even thinking of just going with sod.

 

[PS4814]

That’s what I’ve now got on one portion of our property (the two sections are fully separate). It went from probably 60/40 grass to weeds 5 years ago to now 60/40 weeds and some sections are almost entirely weeds. Even thinking of just going with sod.

Before spending 5 figures on sod hire a professional. I didn't mention that a 3rd adjoining neighbor's yard was fully brown and nothing but knee high weeds 3 seasons ago. He hired a pro and within a year it was looking much better - within 2 it looked lush and healthy. If you're not that far gone you shouldn't need as much work.

Honestly I priced it out and for the cost of purchasing the fertilizers and weed treatments, plus the risk of using the wrong stuff or over/under applying and damaging the yard further, vs the cost of a pro it was just a no brainer to hire someone that knows what they're doing and can save me the hassle for not that much more cost.

 

[anon_1eeb2b426hv3y]

Before spending 5 figures on sod hire a professional. I didn't mention that a 3rd adjoining neighbor's yard was fully brown and nothing but knee high weeds 3 seasons ago. He hired a pro and within a year it was looking much better - within 2 it looked lush and healthy. If you're not that far gone you shouldn't need as much work.

Good advice. Thanks.
Ours gets cut regularly so it’s short and orderly, just mostly short green stuff other than turf grass. Looks more like a “lawn” in a school yard than a nice house.

 

[phillybillyreprise]

If you have children and/or a dog be careful with using chemicals.

https://www.sciencenewsforstudents.org/article/weed-killers-may-go-plant-pooch

https://www.gardensalive.com/product/have-a-healthy-weedfree-lawnnaturally

 

[Woodpecker]

So my greatest issue is with Creeping Charlie. I've been told that the best way forward is the administration of nasty herbicides. If I go with a pro as suggested by several posters above, should I get them on board now (Fall) or wait until Spring?

 

[diontechristmas]

Lots of good advice here, but may I ask the OP what’s wrong with the lawn currently and what have you done so far? Typically some combination of weed/feed, lime, thatching, aeration and overseed will get the job done. However, not all may be necessary. Do you have a ton of weeds? Lots of bare spots? Good cover but just sad looking grass? Lots of trees or none?

Let us know!

 

[Tom McAndrew]

So my greatest issue is with Creeping Charlie. I've been told that the best way forward is the administration of nasty herbicides. If I go with a pro as suggested by several posters above, should I get them on board now (Fall) or wait until Spring?

from the You Bet Your Garden's solutions from their web site (CLICK HERE to access):

"herbicides are going to work best on most weeds when the weather is hot and dry, but that's not the case here. Most sources specify that creeping Charlie is much more vulnerable to this kind of attack right now—in the fall, when the plant is storing energy—than in the summer. So if you are going to go after Charlie with Iron or the Mule Team, don't delay. Do a first run ASAP, and then repeat it a few weeks later."

If you want to deal with this in a non-herbicide manner, you could use a 20 Mule Team Borax solution:

"To treat an area of approximately one thousand infested square feet, dissolve 10 ounces of Twenty Mule Team Borax in four ounces of warm water. When you have all the borax in solution, mix this into two and a half gallons of warm water, stir well, and spray directly on the weed with a sprayer that has never held chemicals of any kind! (One that you've used to apply non-toxic things like deer repellant, compost tea, or beneficial nematodes is fine; just remember to always clean your sprayer after every use, including this one—you don't want any residual borax in there.)

You'll get the best results when the weed is dry and rain is not predicted for a few days afterward. And be vigilant when any new runners appear.

If you go the herbicide route, Iron-X will do the trick:

CLICK HERE for info

Good luck

 

[demlion]

I let it fend for itself - damn, needy lawn!

Get off my lawn, lawn!

Every year, before I go to Canada for a week, I scalp my weedy, never-spent-a-penny-for-fertilizer lawn. The extremely hot dry weather almost always browns it out and I don't have to mow again til late September. Fertilizer? Pesticide? Makes more work.

This year the rain has screwed me, though, and I'm still cutting once a week. I hate my lawn.

 

[BeefSkull]

Lots of good advice here, but may I ask the OP what’s wrong with the lawn currently and what have you done so far? Typically some combination of weed/feed, lime, thatching, aeration and overseed will get the job done. However, not all may be necessary. Do you have a ton of weeds? Lots of bare spots? Good cover but just sad looking grass? Lots of trees or none?

Let us know!

Partial Sun....tired looking....less and less grass each year...bare spots in certain areas ..which is new this year....I am gonna Aerate, weed and feed...over seed and see what happens.

 

[83wuzme]

from the You Bet Your Garden's solutions from their web site (CLICK HERE to access):

"herbicides are going to work best on most weeds when the weather is hot and dry, but that's not the case here. Most sources specify that creeping Charlie is much more vulnerable to this kind of attack right now—in the fall, when the plant is storing energy—than in the summer. So if you are going to go after Charlie with Iron or the Mule Team, don't delay. Do a first run ASAP, and then repeat it a few weeks later."

If you want to deal with this in a non-herbicide manner, you could use a 20 Mule Team Borax solution:

"To treat an area of approximately one thousand infested square feet, dissolve 10 ounces of Twenty Mule Team Borax in four ounces of warm water. When you have all the borax in solution, mix this into two and a half gallons of warm water, stir well, and spray directly on the weed with a sprayer that has never held chemicals of any kind! (One that you've used to apply non-toxic things like deer repellant, compost tea, or beneficial nematodes is fine; just remember to always clean your sprayer after every use, including this one—you don't want any residual borax in there.)

You'll get the best results when the weed is dry and rain is not predicted for a few days afterward. And be vigilant when any new runners appear.

If you go the herbicide route, Iron-X will do the trick:

CLICK HERE for info

Good luck

Tom, I have read that using 20 Mule Team Borax should be a one - time thing because, if repeated, you can end up with boron levels so high in the soil that it will hurt the grass. I have no personal experience with this.

I have used Iron - X and had mixed results at best. It is expensive. You have to use it during dry periods and you have to repeat the application within about 6 weeks.

 

[Class of 67]

My lawn rules:

• Fertilize Once a season, Ideally a service as they are better at weed control but if too much, get a sprinkler and do it yourself in late march, Late May, Early August and at last cut (halloween?).
• Cut weekly, often more frequently in the fast growing spring season (May-June).
• Cut the grass as high as you can, people often cut their lawn too short.
• Use a mulch mower, do not pick up the cut grass. This is, unless, you let it get too long and after cutting have piles of clippings on top of the lawn.
• Water, water, water. Get an in-ground sprinkler if you can afford it. If not, there are some good timers to attach to a hose but its a lot of remembering, moving and general work. People often have bare spots under a tree and it is often because, even in rainy times, the rain never makes it to the ground. Need to water every other day. Do this in the morning (6am to 7am) or in the evening hours (6pm to 8pm). Do not water at night (can create a fungus) or in the middle of the day (water can burn the grass and evaporates too quickly).

I planted my own lawn seven years ago and had one of the nicest in my 'hood. I cut my lawn and two other people's lawns (a rental property and a disabled single mothers). I made the mistake of using one push mower and contaminated my lawn with crap from the single mother's. I will be killing my lawn week after next and planting anew, at least in the front.

I agree with most of these rules. Also, don't cut more than 1/3 of the blade length. That may require more than weekly cutting. I fertilize only in mid-to-late fall, the purpose being to encourage root growth into early winter and to permit nutrition to be stored in the crown for enhanced spring health. Do not fertilize before overseeding; wait until a few weeks after germination. I prepare for overseeding in late August. Summer warmth promotes germination and the following cooler weather is loved by growing fescue. I don't water. If the roots are trained to get moisture in the upper layers of soil the roots won't grow deep in search of moisture to survive dry periods. The lawn may suffer some during dry spells, but it comes back in the fall. Besides, I'm not one to run up water usage in summer, because my sewage bills are based on summer water data. I don't use mass coverage of pesticides or herbicides. Striving micro-organisms in the soil are beneficial to a healthy lawn. A thick lawn minimizes weeds. Keep up with any weeds immediately in spring with hand-picking where possible and spot spraying. I cut my lawn very short and spread Leafgro (compost) every Aug/Sep before overseeding. Distribute compost with a gentle sweeping of the back of a leaf rake. Do the same after the overseeding to partially bury the seeds in the compost. Water lightly to keep lawn damp until germination, and then lessen the watering. Make a first cut when new grass is 3". Every few years I'll core before the fall feeding and perhaps put a light covering of more seeds. Keep the mower blade sharp. The rule of thumb for starting over is more than 60% weeds is a lost cause. Kill the lawn and grow a new lawn.

 

[SR108]

I live is eastern PA and struggling with my lawn .... not a green thumb. So wonder is there any good websites anyone has used or followed. Or any advice tried and true processes or products ....Clearly I can google ...”caring for my lawn” ... but I find this board cuts to the chase. I believe aerorating then fertilizing is coming up and then seeding. So that is the reason I ask .... once again thanks in advance ...

Let’s go lions !

I have a serious issue with "Creeping Charlie". anyone know how to get rid of it/

 

[Obliviax]

I have a serious issue with "Creeping Charlie". anyone know how to get rid of it/

See McAndrews post above

 

[gamblepsu]

Great advice in this thread. Also, make sure your mower blades are sharp. Nothing makes a lawn look brown quicker than a dull blade.

My issue is Bermuda grass that has crept in due to the vacant lots behind me. Pain in the rear as most weeed and feeds don’t kill it on purpose. The only stuff that works even a little is expensive and only knocks it back. You pick up one of the runners and you end up with a huge bare area.

 

[TrevYoung]

You can learn a lot from watching youtube videos. Here are a few channels that are really good.

https://www.youtube.com/user/LawnCareMidwest
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1Tv_Bd07M1FachT30W1W8g
https://www.youtube.com/user/steviessmith
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCKNqbN3YW9zGRvyxc9D901A

The guy from the first link has his own website.

https://thelawncarenut.com/

 

[Agoodnap]

As others have said, get your soil tested before you fertilize. Just download the form and send them a cup or two of soil in a zip-lock bag for each test. I'd do front and back at a minimum. Here's a link to the submission form. You don't need a kit but you can get one if you'd like.
https://agsci.psu.edu/aasl/soil-testing/soil-fertility-testing

While waiting for your test results you should start killing the weeds. I use a combination of Tenacity and any off-the-shelf product that contains Dicamba (usually listed as Salt of Dicamba). Ortho and Bayer products usually contain this herbicide.

Tenacity is both a Pre and Post emergent herbicide, can be applied at the same time as seeding, and will last about six weeks or so. A little goes a long way. You mix about a teaspoon per gallon of water. Also, add in a surfactant to help Tenacity, and all herbicides, stick to the weeds.

Here is Tenacity:
https://www.pedchem.com/products/tenacity-herbicide-weed-control

Here is a Surfactant (you could probably use a dish soap by why chance it):
https://southernag.com/residential-products/surfactant-for-herbicides/

So, get yourself a small sprayer (1 to 2 gallons) and mix in the four ingredients; Tenacity, Dicamba (Ortho Weed b Gone, etc), Surfactant, and water.

 

[KnightWhoSaysNit]

Man the hassles you guys are going through trying to maintain lawns. Convinces me that I made the right choice.

 

[diontechristmas]

Partial Sun....tired looking....less and less grass each year...bare spots in certain areas ..which is new this year....I am gonna Aerate, weed and feed...over seed and see what happens.

Cool that will be a good start.

If there is a ton of dead grass a thatch job may be in order as well.

 

[Op2]

Despite the fact that Brawndo has electrolytes and that some say that Brawndo's got what plants crave, put water on your lawn and not Brawndo.

 

[Op2]

If you have children and/or a dog be careful with using chemicals.

https://www.sciencenewsforstudents.org/article/weed-killers-may-go-plant-pooch

https://www.gardensalive.com/product/have-a-healthy-weedfree-lawnnaturally

Is it possible to use anything other than chemicals? Isn't everything chemicals, including the grass?