OT: Garage doors- 2 single doors vs 1 double door

[PSU95alum]

Pros and cons of each for a new attached garage build. Would love to know what the brain trust thinks.

Details:
- garage width is about 24'
- garage depth around 30'
- the garage will be front facing, meaning, the doors facing the street the same way the front of the house does.
- EDIT- garage will have a 2nd story livable space above it.

I have a very small amount of room to make it a bit bigger in either direction if needed.

 

[PearlSUJam]

Pros and cons of each for a new attached garage build. Would love to know what the brain trust thinks.

FYI- garage width is about 24' and depth around 30'. I have a very small amount of room to make it a bit bigger in either direction if needed.

With 2 doors you'll need a minimum of 16" between doors and 16" on both sides so that leaves you with 2 ten foot doors. That could be tight squeeze if you have a truck or large SUV. That would also drive up costs with 2 doors, openers, electric for openers, exterior trim, etc.

By the way, did install the pool yet or is that in combo with the garage?

 

[Pinkhippo PeanutButter]

Seems like the best place to post this question.

 

[PearlSUJam]

Seems like the best place to post this question.

When was the last time you contributed anything on football?

 

[ClarkstonMark]

What are you putting in it?
Does your building code have a restriction on garage sq ft as % of total house sq ft (I ran into that issue with a new build)?

 

[GregInPitt]

Interesting that you pose this question. Yesterday I received the first draft final plans for a detached garage I am planning. 24 wide by 26 deep inside dimensions. I chose one door, 18' wide and 8' high. The door in my small double garage integral to my house is 6.5' high by 16' wide, but is positioned perpendicular to the new garage door. I chose the new door size to accommodate tall SUV's, although I have not plans to purchase one. I believe the 18' width will allow easy access to any point in the garage, as there is only 4' of garage to either side of the door, and I plan to do considerable work on cars in the garage so I will need jack space between the car and the wall anyway. But if you put in two garage doors, likely more expensive, you could get the doors to align closer to the sides of the garage if that is a priority for you.

My garage plan is for a 10'6" height, as I plan to purchase a lift to stack two cars on one side of the garage. With the height of my garage, the wide and tall door should look pretty proportional with the look of my integral garage door, which I plan to replace to a matching door at that time the new garage door is installed....

 

[PSU95alum]

With 2 doors you'll need a minimum of 16" between doors and 16" on both sides so that leaves you with 2 ten foot doors. That could be tight squeeze if you have a truck or large SUV. That would also drive up costs with 2 doors, openers, electric for openers, exterior trim, etc.

By the way, did install the pool yet or is that in combo with the garage?

Thanks for the info. I’ve been reading 8-9’ for the opening of single doors. 8’ seems small to me. I’d rather go 9’.
Yes, the pool is finished. Still waiting for some landscaping prior taking pics and posting them. Hopefully that should be in the next week or so.

 

[PSU95alum]

Seems like the best place to post this question.

Yes, it is, rook.

 

[PSU95alum]

What are you putting in it?
Does your building code have a restriction on garage sq ft as % of total house sq ft (I ran into that issue with a new build)?

Typical garage stuff. One large SUV and 1 normal sized vehicle. Five bicycles. Tools, lawn equipment, etc. also, keep in mind, I do not have a basement. I do have a 10x16 shed, but the new garage will take on the majority of my storage needs.
No restrictions as to size, but I don’t want it to look too big compared to the house. It will also have a 2nd story with livable/heated square footage. I feel like the 24x30 is already probably too big for the house, but I’m willing to live with it.

 

[srg1]

I have a single door on a detached garage and I have never once wished for double doors. I can only think of negatives with double doors.

 

[PeetzPoolBoy]

Pros and cons of each for a new attached garage build. Would love to know what the brain trust thinks.

Details:
- garage width is about 24'
- garage depth around 30'
- the garage will be front facing, meaning, the doors facing the street the same way the front of the house does.

I have a very small amount of room to make it a bit bigger in either direction if needed.

Assuming the 24' measurement is on the interior of the garage (i.e. doesn't include brick veneer) you have ample room for two (2) 8' foot doors, probably even 9' doors. For structural and aesthetic reasons, I prefer two single doors vs. one wider door. Garage headers tend to sag (even if you use reinforced beams like a Parallam) if the opening becomes too wide. By splitting the opening into two doors, you gain structural framing in the middle of the header which greatly assists with sag prevention (because you know have two shorter headers). This is especially important because you will have living area and roof loads transferred to the garage header wall. A single door might require a steel i-Beam header and support columns ($$$)

Here are some "rules of thumb"

• You shouldn't go narrower than 8' doors especially if you have an SUV or truck (9' is better)
• Single doors start at 8' and are available in larger sizes in 1' increments.
• You should allow a minimum of 1-1/2' on the sides of the doors in order to easily get in and out of the vehicle (2' is better)
• You should allow a minimum of 1-1/2' between the doors so that you don't bang the doors of one vehicle into the next (2' is better).

If you have 24' of available width, you could have two nice 9' doors.

24' Total - 18' (2 doors at 9' each) - 6' (2' on the outside of each door and 2' separating the doors).

If you decide you'd prefer two 8' doors, I would add the extra space to the outside of the doors (i.e 2' --> 3') for moving bicycles and lawn mowers without fear of hitting the sides of your vehicles.

If your 24' measurement is "external" (includes brick veneer) then you'll need to either reduce the door widths to 8' or have somewhat less room on the sides and between the doors.

Hope this helps.

 

[BriarwoodBash]

Yes, it is, rook.

Do not do 8’ singles. Too tight for even crossovers like Ford Edge. Only inches on either side of mirrors. 9’s are Fine.

 

[PSU95alum]

Interesting that you pose this question. Yesterday I received the first draft final plans for a detached garage I am planning. 24 wide by 26 deep inside dimensions. I chose one door, 18' wide and 8' high. The door in my small double garage integral to my house is 6.5' high by 16' wide, but is positioned perpendicular to the new garage door. I chose the new door size to accommodate tall SUV's, although I have not plans to purchase one. I believe the 18' width will allow easy access to any point in the garage, as there is only 4' of garage to either side of the door, and I plan to do considerable work on cars in the garage so I will need jack space between the car and the wall anyway. But if you put in two garage doors, likely more expensive, you could get the doors to align closer to the sides of the garage if that is a priority for you.

My garage plan is for a 10'6" height, as I plan to purchase a lift to stack two cars on one side of the garage. With the height of my garage, the wide and tall door should look pretty proportional with the look of my integral garage door, which I plan to replace to a matching door at that time the new garage door is installed....

Sounds like you have a nice project getting ready to start. I have thought about not having the ability to pull the car straight into the middle of the garage to wash it or work on it. But I’d probably never wash it in the garage anyways as it’s NC and never too cold to wash it outside.

 

[EdH85]

Pros and cons of each for a new attached garage build. Would love to know what the brain trust thinks.

Details:
- garage width is about 24'
- garage depth around 30'
- the garage will be front facing, meaning, the doors facing the street the same way the front of the house does.

I have a very small amount of room to make it a bit bigger in either direction if needed.

I have both and I have had to replace one of the springs (there are two) on my double door on three different occasions, but never on the single door. Replacing the spring is about $250.

 

[step.eng69]

What are you putting in it?
Does your building code have a restriction on garage sq ft as % of total house sq ft (I ran into that issue with a new build)?

The percentage of remaining property that can be improved is usually a Zoning Board issue & approval.

Building codes primarily set the regulations governing the design, construction, alteration and maintenance of structures.

 

[PearlSUJam]

It will also have a 2nd story with livable/heated square footage.

This changes everything. If you are planning living space you won't be able to use clear span trusses.

In that case you'll need a beam somewhere to carry the floor joists. In a lot a cases, the beam would run from the rear of the garage and land in between the 2 garage doors and still need supports unless you completely over size it.

 

[PSU95alum]

Assuming the 24' measurement is on the interior of the garage (i.e. doesn't include brick veneer) you have ample room for two (2) 8' foot doors, probably even 9' doors. For structural and aesthetic reasons, I prefer two single doors vs. one wider door. Garage headers tend to sag (even if you use reinforced beams like a Parallam) if the opening becomes too wide. By splitting the opening into two doors, you gain structural framing in the middle of the header which greatly assists with sag prevention.

Here are some "rules of thumb"

• You shouldn't go narrower than 8' doors especially if you have an SUV or truck (9' is better)
• Single doors start at 8' and are available in larger sizes in 1' increments.
• You should allow a minimum of 1-1/2' on the sides of the doors in order to easily get in and out of the vehicle (2' is better)
• You should allow a minimum of 1-1/2' between the doors so that you don't bang the doors of one vehicle into the next (2' is better).

If you have 24' of available width, you could have two nice 9' doors.

24' Total - 18' (2 doors at 9' each) - 6' (2' on the outside of each door and 2' separating the doors).

If you decide you'd prefer two 8' doors, I would add the extra space to the outside of the doors (i.e 2' --> 3') for moving bicycles and lawn mowers without fear of hitting the sides of your vehicles.

If your 24' measurement is "external" (includes brick veneer) then you'll need to either reduce the door widths to 8' or have somewhat less room on the sides and between the doors.

Hope this helps.

PPB- thx, this is great information. I want the width of 9’ to pull into the bay easily and also to have adequate space between the 2 vehicles. But I also need space for the bikes and equipment to get in and out without scratching paint. Good info to digest and think about. Thx.

 

[PSU95alum]

Do not do 8’ singles. Too tight for even crossovers like Ford Edge. Only inches on either side of mirrors. 9’s are Fine.

Good to know. I was leaning towards 9’ if I do 2 doors, but nice to know 8’ seems to be a non-starter. Thx!

 

[PeetzPoolBoy]

PPB- thx, this is great information. I want the width of 9’ to pull into the bay easily and also to have adequate space between the 2 vehicles. But I also need space for the bikes and equipment to get in and out without scratching paint. Good info to digest and think about. Thx.

Take your vehicle over to a friends house with 8' doors and see how it "feels" pulling it into the garage.

 

[PSU95alum]

I have both and I have had to replace one of the springs (there are two) on my double door on three different occasions, but never on the single door. Replacing the spring is about $250.

Interesting. One more thing to consider that I wouldn’t have thought of. Thx!

 

[PSU95alum]

The percentage of remaining property that can be improved is usually a Zoning Board issue & approval.

Building codes primarily set the regulations governing the design, construction, alteration and maintenance of structures.

Absolutely correct 69. I’ve got plenty of permiable soil left for my code requirements. Thx.

 

[PSU95alum]

This changes everything. If you are planning living space you won't be able to use clear span trusses.

In that case you'll need a beam somewhere to carry the floor joists. In a lot a cases, the beam would run from the rear of the garage and land in between the 2 garage doors and still need supports unless you completely over size it.

Hmmm, I don’t want a beam in the middle of the garage to support the 2nd level. My neighbor built one (detached) and his is 23’ wide and he has no support columns in the middle of the garage.

 

[GregInPitt]

Sounds like you have a nice project getting ready to start. I have thought about not having the ability to pull the car straight into the middle of the garage to wash it or work on it. But I’d probably never wash it in the garage anyways as it’s NC and never too cold to wash it outside.

I'm not running water into my garage in PA. I have a hose at the corner of my integral garage. My oldest son and I like to work on cars, his is a 2017 sti, mine an RSX. But I just retired and plan to work on a muscle car project when the garage is finished. I really just need electricity, and will research the needs for welding equipment before I put the electricity in (running it under the driveway when I replace and expand my driveway after the garage in finished). I have 200 amp service to the house, so I believe I could run 150 amp to the new garage off my current service which has the service box in my integral garage.

But if the price of natural gas goes to $5 or $6, I may want to stack a Lambo above the RSX..........

 

[PSU95alum]

I have a single door on a detached garage and I have never once wished for double doors. I can only think of negatives with double doors.

One of the few positives with 2 doors is asthetics. Also, having a more defined bat to pull into is another. But I can see your point. Thx.

 

[PSU95alum]

Take your vehicle over to a friends house with 8' doors and see how it "feels" pulling it into the garage.

Haha, it’s a Suburban, so I’m sure it’ll be a bit right. Lol.

 

[PearlSUJam]

Hmmm, I don’t want a beam in the kiddie of the garage to support the 2nd level. My neighbor built one (detached) and his is 23’ wide and he has no support columns in the middle of the garage.

Is there living space above? There are other options such as manufactured floor joists but 24' or 30' is quite a span either way you cut it.

 

[PSU95alum]

I'm not running water into my garage in PA. I have a hose at the corner of my integral garage. My oldest son and I like to work on cars, his is a 2017 sti, mine an RSX. But I just retired and plan to work on a muscle car project when the garage is finished. I really just need electricity, and will research the needs for welding equipment before I put the electricity in (running it under the driveway when I replace and expand my driveway after the garage in finished). I have 200 amp service to the house, so I believe I could run 150 amp to the new garage off my current service which has the service box in my integral garage.

But if the price of natural gas goes to $5 or $6, I may want to stack a Lambo above the RSX..........

Sounds like fun times are ahead for you in retirement. I wish you the best on your dream muscle car project.

 

[PSU95alum]

Is there living space above? There are other options such as manufactured floor joists but 24' or 30' is quite a span either way you cut it.

His garage does have full 8’ high ceilings in the 2nd floor space. But now that you mention it, I do recall him having manufactured floor joists delivered for that project.

 

[PearlSUJam]

His garage does have full 8’ high ceilings in the 2nd floor space. But now that you mention it, I do recall him having manufactured floor joists delivered for that project.

If you go that route, don't undersize. The second floor will be like a trampoline when you walk around up there.

 

[BriarwoodBash]

Hmmm, I don’t want a beam in the middle of the garage to support the 2nd level. My neighbor built one (detached) and his is 23’ wide and he has no support columns in the middle of the garage.

There are several ways to accomplish no post at this span. A good builder will know or you can contact a truss manufacturer. Mine is 24x 34, no poles.

 

[BriarwoodBash]

There are several ways to accomplish no post at this span. A good builder will know or you can contact a truss manufacturer. Mine is 24x 34, no poles.

Also, if want storage above, let them know and they will use a deeper bottom chord of the truss.

 

[PSU95alum]

If you go that route, don't undersize. The second floor will be like a trampoline when you walk around up there.

But oversizing means more space between floors, right? Which makes my overall structure higher?

 

[PSU95alum]

There are several ways to accomplish no post at this span. A good builder will know or you can contact a truss manufacturer. Mine is 24x 34, no poles.

Good to know.
Is it like a trampoline?

 

[PSU95alum]

Also, if want storage above, let them know and they will use a deeper bottom chord of the truss.

Not sure what you mean. Storage above what? The livable space (i.e- the attic)? What is a deeper bottom chord of the truss?
#FeelingStupid lol.

 

[PearlSUJam]

But overdosing means more space between floors, right? Which makes my overall structure higher?

Correct. But it may only mean bumping up to 16" floor joists when you would probably need at least a 12" if you use a beam.

 

[BriarwoodBash]

Not sure what you mean. Storage above what? The livable space (i.e- the attic). What is a deeper bottom chord of the truss?
#FeelingStupid lol.

Sorry if I missed what is above the garage. If it’s living space, they will design for proper load in pounds per sq ft. A lot of time that space is wasted space with no design load. The bottom chord is the wood member that forms the base of the triangulated truss. When it is deeper (like 2x8 vs 2x4), it can handle more load.

 

[step.eng69]

Details:
- garage width is about 24'
- garage depth around 30'
- the garage will be front facing, meaning, the doors facing the street the same way the front of the house does.
- EDIT- garage will have a 2nd story livable space above it.

I would assume you are having the ceiling system (second floor) and header's for the garage doors determined by a reputable individual. 30' residential live loading clear spans without mid supports will be more costly and require more depth to the supporting members and add more height to your garage, requiring more material. If cost is not an issue, go for it.

Have to go to bed now.

 

[PearlSUJam]

Not sure what you mean. Storage above what? The livable space (i.e- the attic)? What is a deeper bottom chord of the truss?
#FeelingStupid lol.

I think he missed the part about living space.

 

[PearlSUJam]

I would assume you are having the ceiling system (second floor) and header's for the garage doors determined by a reputable individual. 30' residential live loading clear spans without mid supports will be more costly and require more depth to the supporting members and add more height to your garage, requiring more material. If cost is not an issue, go for it.

Have to go to bed now.

Spoken like an engineer!

 

[PSU95alum]

Correct. But it may only mean bumping up to 16" floor joists when you would probably need at least a 12" if you use a beam.

Ok, so not terribly significant in the overall scope. Thanks!