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OT: Dishwasher Repair

Langmuir

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May 8, 2016
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I have found very little useful information on the internet, so I come to the all-knowing board.

My dishwasher was not draining. So after taking apart a few things on the bottom of the dishwasher, I found the drain filter screen was clogged with gunk. I cleaned that out and managed to get everything back together. I tested it by running the cancel/drain button and it drained. Yea...success.

But then when I ran the dishwasher, it started making a loud humming sound when the circulation motor kicked on. I would not let it run long for fear of burning out the motor. I figure that when I was cleaning out drain that a piece of glass or some other hard debris fell down into impeller and is now jammed in there.

So now I know the likely problem, it should be easy to fix. The problem is that the plastic piece called the sump in the parts list that I found online has no screws or any obvious thing holding it down. It seems to be in there tight and it does not appear that it twists off. I tried but did not put too much force for fear of breaking something. I found on the parts list online that there might be a screw or screws underneath along with some sort of clip. The drawings do not give detail on how this secures the sump.

All the online videos I have seen have clearly visible screws on the sump. I don't know what I am getting into. I fear the situation that if I remove these screws completely that I will never be able to get them back in without pulling out the dishwasher and putting it on its side. It is a newer model Maytag but I know that most dishwashers are all made by the same company.

Anybody have any experience with a situation like this?
 
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I fear the situation that if I remove these screws completely that I will never be able to get them back in without pulling out the dishwasher and putting it on its side.
You must confront your fear.
 
I have found very little useful information on the internet, so I come to the all-knowing board.

My dishwasher was not draining. So after taking apart a few things on the bottom of the dishwasher, I found the drain filter screen was clogged with gunk. I cleaned that out and managed to get everything back together. I tested it by running the cancel/drain button and it drained. Yea...success.

But then when I ran the dishwasher, it started making a loud humming sound when the circulation motor kicked on. I would not let it run long for fear of burning out the motor. I figure that when I was cleaning out drain that a piece of glass or some other hard debris fell down into impeller and is now jammed in there.

So now I know the likely problem, it should be easy to fix. The problem is that the plastic piece called the sump in the parts list that I found online has no screws or any obvious thing holding it down. It seems to be in there tight and it does not appear that it twists off. I tried but did not put too much force for fear of breaking something. I found on the parts list online that there might be a screw or screws underneath along with some sort of clip. The drawings do not give detail on how this secures the sump.

All the online videos I have seen have clearly visible screws on the sump. I don't know what I am getting into. I fear the situation that if I remove these screws completely that I will never be able to get them back in without pulling out the dishwasher and putting it on its side. It is a newer model Maytag but I know that most dishwashers are all made by the same company.

Anybody have any experience with a situation like this?
www.repairclinic.com
 
When posting appeals for guidance with anything appliance/automotive, you hafta throw us a bone and at least disclose the mfr/model... (update: oops, now I see it way at the end #embarrassed) wish you the best of luck, I once had similar issues with a Maytag (pre-Whirlpool acquisition) and found a shard of porcelain from a plate deep in the plastic bowels of the unit... had fragile plastic parts /screens all over the kitchen floor - but was able to solve/put back together... likewise had an issue with a new Kitchenaid (Whirlpool) not filling and found a small carrot piece lodged under the basin-float (which made the unit think it tub was already/always full). EZFix... wish you the same ... alas, those pieces down there are cheap and brittle
 
Serious question: Are there any kitchen appliances made in the past 10 years that aren't pieces of junk?

I'm dealing with a problem in my 4-year-old Whirlpool gas range. The oven, once it preheats, will not try to turn back on after the temp drops. Periodically, it will try to turn on in the form of the igniter trying 4-times before quitting (repeats that 2 times before safety activates and kills everything). I had a repair person come out who will install a new igniter, but if this doesn't fix it, I'm not going to pay over $350 to have the electronic "brains" fixed.
 
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When I encounter these situations, I order a new appliance with installation, and the next day my problem is solved.
I have the same philosophy about cars. When it's time to get new tires I just get a new vehicle instead. Someday I may decide to trade it in when it's time for an oil change. :)
 
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Serious question: Are there any kitchen appliances made in the past 10 years that aren't pieces of junk?

I'm dealing with a problem in my 4-year-old Whirlpool gas range. The oven, once it preheats, will not try to turn back on after the temp drops. Periodically, it will try to turn on in the form of the igniter trying 4-times before quitting (repeats that 2 times before safety activates and kills everything). I had a repair person come out who will install a new igniter, but if this doesn't fix it, I'm not going to pay over $350 to have the electronic "brains" fixed.

I would have to say no. From my experience it not worth it to pay more because they are still pieces of junk. About 10 years ago, I was able to acquire a Northland refrigerator for practically nothing. I won't get into the details of how I got this. This thing is stainless steel, inside and out and retailed for several thousand dollars. You would think this thing should run trouble free for 25 years based on the price.

Nothing could be further from the truth. After about a year or two, the solenoid for the ice maker started leaking. This caused damage to my floor and a host of other issues. I replaced the solenoid but due the damage that the leaking caused, I am not willing to use the ice maker again.

Then I had issues where the condenser coils would freeze up and turn into a giant block of ice. I would have to take everything out of it and thaw out the whole thing for a day for it work again. I had an appliance repairman come out and take a look. He tried a number of things. I know one thing that was replacing was the defrost timer which to my surprise was a very cheap mechanical timer. After about the 4th time out, he discovered a major design flaw. The defrost thermocouple was placed right beside the defrost heater. So the defrost heater would kick on and immediately shut off since the thermocouple showed it was up to temperature. He move the thermocouple and that solved the problem.

If I can get out work early today, I will work on the dishwasher. I am leaving for the beach for a week tomorrow and that is the last thing I want to deal with when getting back from vacation so I hope to have it fixed today.
 
I have found very little useful information on the internet, so I come to the all-knowing board.

My dishwasher was not draining. So after taking apart a few things on the bottom of the dishwasher, I found the drain filter screen was clogged with gunk. I cleaned that out and managed to get everything back together. I tested it by running the cancel/drain button and it drained. Yea...success.

But then when I ran the dishwasher, it started making a loud humming sound when the circulation motor kicked on. I would not let it run long for fear of burning out the motor. I figure that when I was cleaning out drain that a piece of glass or some other hard debris fell down into impeller and is now jammed in there.

So now I know the likely problem, it should be easy to fix. The problem is that the plastic piece called the sump in the parts list that I found online has no screws or any obvious thing holding it down. It seems to be in there tight and it does not appear that it twists off. I tried but did not put too much force for fear of breaking something. I found on the parts list online that there might be a screw or screws underneath along with some sort of clip. The drawings do not give detail on how this secures the sump.

All the online videos I have seen have clearly visible screws on the sump. I don't know what I am getting into. I fear the situation that if I remove these screws completely that I will never be able to get them back in without pulling out the dishwasher and putting it on its side. It is a newer model Maytag but I know that most dishwashers are all made by the same company.

Anybody have any experience with a situation like this?
Can you provide a model # for that Maytag (which if it’s newer,is actually just a rebranded Whirlpool)?

To get decent access to the sump, you’ll need to disconnect and pull- out the DW. Place a blanket on the floor and then tip it on its side.
 
I would have to say no. From my experience it not worth it to pay more because they are still pieces of junk. About 10 years ago, I was able to acquire a Northland refrigerator for practically nothing. I won't get into the details of how I got this. This thing is stainless steel, inside and out and retailed for several thousand dollars. You would think this thing should run trouble free for 25 years based on the price.

Nothing could be further from the truth. After about a year or two, the solenoid for the ice maker started leaking. This caused damage to my floor and a host of other issues. I replaced the solenoid but due the damage that the leaking caused, I am not willing to use the ice maker again.

Then I had issues where the condenser coils would freeze up and turn into a giant block of ice. I would have to take everything out of it and thaw out the whole thing for a day for it work again. I had an appliance repairman come out and take a look. He tried a number of things. I know one thing that was replacing was the defrost timer which to my surprise was a very cheap mechanical timer. After about the 4th time out, he discovered a major design flaw. The defrost thermocouple was placed right beside the defrost heater. So the defrost heater would kick on and immediately shut off since the thermocouple showed it was up to temperature. He move the thermocouple and that solved the problem.

If I can get out work early today, I will work on the dishwasher. I am leaving for the beach for a week tomorrow and that is the last thing I want to deal with when getting back from vacation so I hope to have it fixed today.
Not to get on too much of a rant but I just had my AC Replaced last year after nursing it with occasional Freon fills but it finally gave out. The repairman said it was because the coil is placed on top of the heater element and every winter the heater kicks on and of and the constant expansion and contraction of the AC coil wears it out. Am I supposed to believe the engineers who designed this thing were not perfectly aware of this design flaw - call me jaded but planned obsolescence comes to mind.
 
Can you provide a model # for that Maytag (which if it’s newer,is actually just a rebranded Whirlpool)?

To get decent access to the sump, you’ll need to disconnect and pull- out the DW. Place a blanket on the floor and then tip it on its side.

model number is MDB4949SDM2
 
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I have the same philosophy about cars. When it's time to get new tires I just get a new vehicle instead. Someday I may decide to trade it in when it's time for an oil change. :)

Once car subscriptions become more common and more competitive, I’ll start looking that direction. I hate dealing with much of what’s included in these.
 
Similar problem a few months ago...dishes weren’t drying because gunk was covering the sensor that tells the machine to dry. I kid you not - the repairman told us to save a ton of money and sprinkle a cup of Tang drink powder in the bottom and run it. Worked beautifully and now we do it every other month. Of course it made us wonder what the hell is in Tang that is strong enough to clean gunk??
 
Similar problem a few months ago...dishes weren’t drying because gunk was covering the sensor that tells the machine to dry. I kid you not - the repairman told us to save a ton of money and sprinkle a cup of Tang drink powder in the bottom and run it. Worked beautifully and now we do it every other month. Of course it made us wonder what the hell is in Tang that is strong enough to clean gunk??

Tang is slightly acidic, that is why it works. You could use vinegar to have the same effect. Tang when prepared to drink has a pH of 2.7, while vinegar is 2.4.
 
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Yeah before we started softening our water we’d “juice” the dishwasher with a cup of white vinegar for each load. Probably a bit excessive but everything came out perfectly clean every time.
 
model number is MDB4949SDM2
Here is a video. I pulled the unit out from under the counter to repair mine as that was easier than removing the door

https://www.repairclinic.com/Video/...sher-Won-t-Drain-Replace-Drain-Pump-W10348269

I would also look at the drain hose. I use the type with a built in check valve (this won't let water and debris back into the dishwasher from the garbage disposal) that can get clogged. I go ahead and replace the hose as I haven't been very successful at unclogging the check valve. Here is a link. You can probably find it cheaper but I like the Repair Clinic videos so I want them to stay in business.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDe...7912?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=w10358302
 
Here are two links with imbedded “how to” video clips regarding removal of the circulation pump motor for your model.

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Circulation-Pump/WPW10757217/3553845#repairHelpVideoTabs

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/whirlpool-motor-pump-wpw10757217-ap6024038.html

If you determine that the circulation pump has failed and needs to be replaced, shop around online. I saw prices online ranging from $100 to $134 plus S&H. It’s Whirlpool part number WPW10757217.

The bad news is that you’ll need to pull the unit and tip it on its side or invert it completely. Not difficult, but just more hassle. If you need additional videos regarding sump removal, just use the above links, type in your model number along with the word “sump” and they’ll direct you to correct part and associated instructional videos.

Good luck.
 
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Serious question: Are there any kitchen appliances made in the past 10 years that aren't pieces of junk?

I'm dealing with a problem in my 4-year-old Whirlpool gas range. The oven, once it preheats, will not try to turn back on after the temp drops. Periodically, it will try to turn on in the form of the igniter trying 4-times before quitting (repeats that 2 times before safety activates and kills everything). I had a repair person come out who will install a new igniter, but if this doesn't fix it, I'm not going to pay over $350 to have the electronic "brains" fixed.

Nope.

Purchased samsung washer / dryer combo. Within a year the washer wouldn't spin up due to a faulty sensor somewhere. Had it repaired 3 times before it fell under lemon law kind of thing and Best Buy refunded my money.

Purchased a Whirlpool fridge - within 3 years the ice maker malfunctioned causing multi thousand dollars in damage to floor/wall. Needless to say I did not reconnect the ice maker water line and would recommend others to disconnect theirs as well. Better safe than sorry.

Spoke to local appliance store when purchasing new set of washer/dryer and they basically said that most appliances these days have an expected lifespan of 7-10 years due to planned obsolescence. So if you pay for an extended 5 year warranty you're pretty much covered for the life of the product and if it fails after that you should just buy a new one.
 
Nope.

Purchased samsung washer / dryer combo. Within a year the washer wouldn't spin up due to a faulty sensor somewhere. Had it repaired 3 times before it fell under lemon law kind of thing and Best Buy refunded my money.

Purchased a Whirlpool fridge - within 3 years the ice maker malfunctioned causing multi thousand dollars in damage to floor/wall. Needless to say I did not reconnect the ice maker water line and would recommend others to disconnect theirs as well. Better safe than sorry.

Spoke to local appliance store when purchasing new set of washer/dryer and they basically said that most appliances these days have an expected lifespan of 7-10 years due to planned obsolescence. So if you pay for an extended 5 year warranty you're pretty much covered for the life of the product and if it fails after that you should just buy a new one.

I’m going to one up you on the Whirlpool fridge. I’m on my 5th ice maker on a 4-year-old fridge.
 
Update.

The sump was removable to a point just by twisting to three clips underneath the sump. Still could not remove it complete since the pump and motor extended the beyond the sump. But pulling the sump was not my goal, I want access to the impeller. All the online videos I found said to pull the sump.

I pulled the dishwasher. Found that even if I removed the sump I would still not have access to the impeller and grinder. None of the online videos helped, my dishwasher was a completely different configuration. I could find no videos that resembled my model.

I found that I had to pull the motor to get access to the impeller and grinder. I love the inaccessible torx screw that are used to mount the motor. As I suspected there was a big chunk of glass in the grinder. The grinder was beaten up pretty good but I think I managed to get it into a condition that should work.

It took me about three hours since I had no idea what I was doing and which parts I could actually take apart. The sump is one giant complex piece of molded plastic. The parts drawings I found online helped me figure it out.

I have it all back together now and running it to check for leaks. So far so good. It may be a little louder than before but if this is the new normal, I can accept that.
 
I would have to say no. From my experience it not worth it to pay more because they are still pieces of junk. About 10 years ago, I was able to acquire a Northland refrigerator for practically nothing. I won't get into the details of how I got this. This thing is stainless steel, inside and out and retailed for several thousand dollars. You would think this thing should run trouble free for 25 years based on the price.

Nothing could be further from the truth. After about a year or two, the solenoid for the ice maker started leaking. This caused damage to my floor and a host of other issues. I replaced the solenoid but due the damage that the leaking caused, I am not willing to use the ice maker again.

Then I had issues where the condenser coils would freeze up and turn into a giant block of ice. I would have to take everything out of it and thaw out the whole thing for a day for it work again. I had an appliance repairman come out and take a look. He tried a number of things. I know one thing that was replacing was the defrost timer which to my surprise was a very cheap mechanical timer. After about the 4th time out, he discovered a major design flaw. The defrost thermocouple was placed right beside the defrost heater. So the defrost heater would kick on and immediately shut off since the thermocouple showed it was up to temperature. He move the thermocouple and that solved the problem.

If I can get out work early today, I will work on the dishwasher. I am leaving for the beach for a week tomorrow and that is the last thing I want to deal with when getting back from vacation so I hope to have it fixed today.
I concur- in the last nine years we have replaced three disposals, a dishwasher and a stacked laundry unit- and there are only two of us so these things are hardly getting heavy use

edit- forgot the refrigerator
 
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Update.

The sump was removable to a point just by twisting to three clips underneath the sump. Still could not remove it complete since the pump and motor extended the beyond the sump. But pulling the sump was not my goal, I want access to the impeller. All the online videos I found said to pull the sump.

I pulled the dishwasher. Found that even if I removed the sump I would still not have access to the impeller and grinder. None of the online videos helped, my dishwasher was a completely different configuration. I could find no videos that resembled my model.

I found that I had to pull the motor to get access to the impeller and grinder. I love the inaccessible torx screw that are used to mount the motor. As I suspected there was a big chunk of glass in the grinder. The grinder was beaten up pretty good but I think I managed to get it into a condition that should work.

It took me about three hours since I had no idea what I was doing and which parts I could actually take apart. The sump is one giant complex piece of molded plastic. The parts drawings I found online helped me figure it out.

I have it all back together now and running it to check for leaks. So far so good. It may be a little louder than before but if this is the new normal, I can accept that.

Well done. You’re making good progress.

If, in the course of disassembly, you had to remove any “crimp clamps” from any hoses attached to either the sump or anything else you removed, just throw them away and install screw-type band clamps.

Whirlpool loves those crimp clamps because they’re cheap and quick to install in the factory, but only if you have a special $100 crimping tool. :mad:
 
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Well done. You’re making good progress.

If, in the course of disassembly, you had to remove any “crimp clamps” from any hoses attached to either the sump or anything else you removed, just throw them away and install screw-type band clamps.

Whirlpool loves those crimp clamps because they’re cheap and quick to install, but only if you have a special $100 crimping tool. :mad:

Thanks for your help. Yeah I was at point were I was thinking I would have to remove one of those clamps and wondering if a normal hose clamp would be ok. I ended up not having to do that but I did have about a 15 minute debate with myself (before I figured out I did not need to remove them) about how to deal with those clamps.
 
Serious question: Are there any kitchen appliances made in the past 10 years that aren't pieces of junk?

I'm dealing with a problem in my 4-year-old Whirlpool gas range. The oven, once it preheats, will not try to turn back on after the temp drops. Periodically, it will try to turn on in the form of the igniter trying 4-times before quitting (repeats that 2 times before safety activates and kills everything). I had a repair person come out who will install a new igniter, but if this doesn't fix it, I'm not going to pay over $350 to have the electronic "brains" fixed.

I replaced an igniter a few years ago - $8 off of Amazon. Took me half an hour. All I needed was a Philip's head screwdriver and two wire nuts (that it came with). Electrical diagram was on back of the stove. One of the easiest repair jobs ever.
 
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