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Moms wants a RV. Need some advice from RV enthusiasts.

You didn't mention the most important part, the bed. Get a waterbed, it is completely impracticable and potentially dangerous, but guaranteed it will be all the little lady talks about.

Also, get something that comes with a big manual. They are great for cruising through the European countryside.

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Czechoslovakia is practically Wisconsin.
 
We have had 3 motorhomes over the last 9 years...Just traded up 2 months ago, so I have lots of experience with these things now. When we first bought one I found it on Ebay and drove over 4 hours to pick up, never drove or had anything like it before, so was quite a learning experience and can give you several things to look at....

Our first RV was a 95 Pace Arrow 35' made by Fleetwood RV, No slides, Ford V8 gas powered with 32K miles. Was a good unit and kept for 3 years with no major problems. Gas engines are extremely loud and in a class A set right next to you when you are driving and give off tremendous amount of heat.

Our second RV was a 2000 Gerogie Boy Landau 36' with Cummins diesel engine and 1 slide out. Solid unit for running just needed a lot of minor work inside to replace flooring as the carpet was terrible. We kept that for 5 years and traveled all over the east coast with no major issues.

What we just got was a 40' Winnebago Ultimate Advantage with 3 slides, got a real good deal, which was surprising given the tight market that was mentioned, so my initial thought was whats wrong with the unit....I am now working through those issues, but since I can fix most things myself and I have a lot of experience working on these things now I figured even if I have to put in 10K I got a good deal and it looks like its going to cost about 5K to get everything working the way it should, so I am pleased with the deal unless I Find out some other issues.

The things most important to check on a used unit....

If you go diesel mileage really isn't important as the engine/transmission setup will most likely outlive all the other components on the coach no matter the age. Cummins and CAT are the common diesel engines you would find in a class A. Obviously if you look at an older unit you may be able to get a good deal...as long as your handy to make some repairs.

The unit we purchase has a basement AC unit and it was blowing cold when we picked it up, but never cooled the coach...which I am sure is why the previous owners traded the unit in Florida...was a bear getting home this summer in 90 degree heat! I found out the unit has 2 compressors and one has a small leak and is freezing up the coils due to low R22...The cost for a complete new unit is 2600, but repairing this unit myself will probably cost a couple hundred. Problem is getting it out to work on...In the interim I added a rooftop unit and removed one of my vent fans and we were able to camp last month in 90degree weather and keep the unit in the mid 70's. As was mentioned earlier Winnebago's are very well made and their website is a wealth of knowledge for used units as you can download all the manuals and parts lists from their website, which is AWESOME!

Fleetwood will email you all the plumbing and electrical drawings as well if you send then the FIN (Fleetwood Identification #) These are things you definitely want if you are to work on things yourself, which is really a requirement for RV life unless you are just filthy rich and want to spend piles of cash on RV Techs.

Generators mostly come in Gas/Diesel some are propane fired and I would avoid these units.

Check roof for leaks and sidewall delamination, which would indicate poor maintenance and possible water damage. RV roofs are either rubber or fiberglass...Winnebago uses fiberglass, the other I had were rubber and both were recoated using a liquid EPDM product that is very expensive, but basically gives you a new roof for about $700, where as a new roof install would be 3-5K You have to keep up maintenance on the roof, check it at least once a month for cuts/cracks in the caulking or rubber if your driving the unit as 1 tree branch cuts the roof and you can get a big leak that causes a lot of damage if not taken care of properly.

Tires as mentioned before are very important as well to maintain and have checked. Verify tire by date code on the tire, they have a 4 digit number signifying week/year they were made. Most RV;s will not have tread issues as they are not driven enough but will have dry rot issues in the side walls. Invest in a tire pressure monitoring system as well. My TPMS has saved me 4 times over the years where we got a small leak and I was able to stop and repair the tire before having catastrophic damage. One was on my tow dolly, so I have pressure monitors on all RV tires, Tow Dolley and rear car tires.

Sorry for the long message, but just giving you some things to thing about. If you have any specific questions please respond here and I'll answer if I can.
 
my brother retired and he and his wife rented a motor home and took 8 weeks to see the country. They rented it in NC. The first day, in WVa, they couldn't get it over 40 mph and it was losing power. My brother is a diesel mechanic and pulled over to work on it but realized it was having major engine problems. They were on 19 near summersville. They called the rental agency who called a mechanic but the mechanic. The mechanic pronounced it DOA and it had to be towed. They towed it through the mountains of WVa to Charleston. There they were told they needed to get a new engine and that was going to take a week. My brother called me and I called the rental agency and told them that they needed to get my brother a new unit, pronto, and deliver it to Charlston. After some heated discussions, they agreed so they had a driver drive him up a different, bigger unit. It took a full day to transfer the clothes, supplies and towed car. Worked great for a week, albeit they lost almost a week screwing around with the first unit. At a camp ground in St. Louis the second week, the hitch for the towed car (also rented) went bad. It took them a couple of days to get the part and they fixed it themselves. They drove around visiting some family but never made it west of TX. He's such a nice guy he doesn't talk about it much but they planned that vacation for two years and it was one of the worst experiences you can imagine.
 
We have had 3 motorhomes over the last 9 years...Just traded up 2 months ago, so I have lots of experience with these things now. When we first bought one I found it on Ebay and drove over 4 hours to pick up, never drove or had anything like it before, so was quite a learning experience and can give you several things to look at....

Our first RV was a 95 Pace Arrow 35' made by Fleetwood RV, No slides, Ford V8 gas powered with 32K miles. Was a good unit and kept for 3 years with no major problems. Gas engines are extremely loud and in a class A set right next to you when you are driving and give off tremendous amount of heat.

Our second RV was a 2000 Gerogie Boy Landau 36' with Cummins diesel engine and 1 slide out. Solid unit for running just needed a lot of minor work inside to replace flooring as the carpet was terrible. We kept that for 5 years and traveled all over the east coast with no major issues.

What we just got was a 40' Winnebago Ultimate Advantage with 3 slides, got a real good deal, which was surprising given the tight market that was mentioned, so my initial thought was whats wrong with the unit....I am now working through those issues, but since I can fix most things myself and I have a lot of experience working on these things now I figured even if I have to put in 10K I got a good deal and it looks like its going to cost about 5K to get everything working the way it should, so I am pleased with the deal unless I Find out some other issues.

The things most important to check on a used unit....

If you go diesel mileage really isn't important as the engine/transmission setup will most likely outlive all the other components on the coach no matter the age. Cummins and CAT are the common diesel engines you would find in a class A. Obviously if you look at an older unit you may be able to get a good deal...as long as your handy to make some repairs.

The unit we purchase has a basement AC unit and it was blowing cold when we picked it up, but never cooled the coach...which I am sure is why the previous owners traded the unit in Florida...was a bear getting home this summer in 90 degree heat! I found out the unit has 2 compressors and one has a small leak and is freezing up the coils due to low R22...The cost for a complete new unit is 2600, but repairing this unit myself will probably cost a couple hundred. Problem is getting it out to work on...In the interim I added a rooftop unit and removed one of my vent fans and we were able to camp last month in 90degree weather and keep the unit in the mid 70's. As was mentioned earlier Winnebago's are very well made and their website is a wealth of knowledge for used units as you can download all the manuals and parts lists from their website, which is AWESOME!

Fleetwood will email you all the plumbing and electrical drawings as well if you send then the FIN (Fleetwood Identification #) These are things you definitely want if you are to work on things yourself, which is really a requirement for RV life unless you are just filthy rich and want to spend piles of cash on RV Techs.

Generators mostly come in Gas/Diesel some are propane fired and I would avoid these units.

Check roof for leaks and sidewall delamination, which would indicate poor maintenance and possible water damage. RV roofs are either rubber or fiberglass...Winnebago uses fiberglass, the other I had were rubber and both were recoated using a liquid EPDM product that is very expensive, but basically gives you a new roof for about $700, where as a new roof install would be 3-5K You have to keep up maintenance on the roof, check it at least once a month for cuts/cracks in the caulking or rubber if your driving the unit as 1 tree branch cuts the roof and you can get a big leak that causes a lot of damage if not taken care of properly.

Tires as mentioned before are very important as well to maintain and have checked. Verify tire by date code on the tire, they have a 4 digit number signifying week/year they were made. Most RV;s will not have tread issues as they are not driven enough but will have dry rot issues in the side walls. Invest in a tire pressure monitoring system as well. My TPMS has saved me 4 times over the years where we got a small leak and I was able to stop and repair the tire before having catastrophic damage. One was on my tow dolly, so I have pressure monitors on all RV tires, Tow Dolley and rear car tires.

Sorry for the long message, but just giving you some things to thing about. If you have any specific questions please respond here and I'll answer if I can.

You’ve got big balls diving into the RV deep-end with a 90s Pace Arrow.... and then a diesel?!?!?

glad I’m out of the RV game as each trip was , it seems, an “adventure” .... as one who has experienced some tire issues (even with fairly new ones) your advice is spot on....
 
There is some excellent advice here so far. We are on our 3rd RV. Just remember that an RV is just a "road boat," but with 10x of the problems of a boat. You should rent one for week to see if you like it.

24 foot is too small in my opinion for two reasons:
1. You find it tough to get 4 people in there or even 2 people and dogs
2. The shorter the wheelbase, the tougher they are to drive. You will find yourself getting blown all over the road. Larger and heavier rigs are so much easier to drive. I would look at something with a minum of 34' if you plan on taking it on long trips.

They average ownership of an RV is about 5 years before they get traded/sold.

We went from a 34' 5th wheel to a 36' Class A gasser (Monaco) and now have a 40' truck conversio (freightliner diesel). Fith wheels have way more space.

Why not consider a 5th wheel.
 
My inlaws are looking to by an RV for their retirement. They looked at used ones and either prices were insane or they found tons of undisclosed problems.

They said f'it and custom built their own fifth wheel rig.
 
my brother retired and he and his wife rented a motor home and took 8 weeks to see the country. They rented it in NC. The first day, in WVa, they couldn't get it over 40 mph and it was losing power. My brother is a diesel mechanic and pulled over to work on it but realized it was having major engine problems. They were on 19 near summersville. They called the rental agency who called a mechanic but the mechanic. The mechanic pronounced it DOA and it had to be towed. They towed it through the mountains of WVa to Charleston. There they were told they needed to get a new engine and that was going to take a week. My brother called me and I called the rental agency and told them that they needed to get my brother a new unit, pronto, and deliver it to Charlston. After some heated discussions, they agreed so they had a driver drive him up a different, bigger unit. It took a full day to transfer the clothes, supplies and towed car. Worked great for a week, albeit they lost almost a week screwing around with the first unit. At a camp ground in St. Louis the second week, the hitch for the towed car (also rented) went bad. It took them a couple of days to get the part and they fixed it themselves. They drove around visiting some family but never made it west of TX. He's such a nice guy he doesn't talk about it much but they planned that vacation for two years and it was one of the worst experiences you can imagine.
Wow glad something like that didn't happen to me when I rented one for the first time for a trip to Yellowstone last year. Did a ten day trip in a 31' class C gas unlimited milage (which was nice). Had plenty of power going up the mountains and it had over 100k miles on it.
 
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We have had 3 motorhomes over the last 9 years...Just traded up 2 months ago, so I have lots of experience with these things now. When we first bought one I found it on Ebay and drove over 4 hours to pick up, never drove or had anything like it before, so was quite a learning experience and can give you several things to look at....

Our first RV was a 95 Pace Arrow 35' made by Fleetwood RV, No slides, Ford V8 gas powered with 32K miles. Was a good unit and kept for 3 years with no major problems. Gas engines are extremely loud and in a class A set right next to you when you are driving and give off tremendous amount of heat.

Our second RV was a 2000 Gerogie Boy Landau 36' with Cummins diesel engine and 1 slide out. Solid unit for running just needed a lot of minor work inside to replace flooring as the carpet was terrible. We kept that for 5 years and traveled all over the east coast with no major issues.

What we just got was a 40' Winnebago Ultimate Advantage with 3 slides, got a real good deal, which was surprising given the tight market that was mentioned, so my initial thought was whats wrong with the unit....I am now working through those issues, but since I can fix most things myself and I have a lot of experience working on these things now I figured even if I have to put in 10K I got a good deal and it looks like its going to cost about 5K to get everything working the way it should, so I am pleased with the deal unless I Find out some other issues.

The things most important to check on a used unit....

If you go diesel mileage really isn't important as the engine/transmission setup will most likely outlive all the other components on the coach no matter the age. Cummins and CAT are the common diesel engines you would find in a class A. Obviously if you look at an older unit you may be able to get a good deal...as long as your handy to make some repairs.

The unit we purchase has a basement AC unit and it was blowing cold when we picked it up, but never cooled the coach...which I am sure is why the previous owners traded the unit in Florida...was a bear getting home this summer in 90 degree heat! I found out the unit has 2 compressors and one has a small leak and is freezing up the coils due to low R22...The cost for a complete new unit is 2600, but repairing this unit myself will probably cost a couple hundred. Problem is getting it out to work on...In the interim I added a rooftop unit and removed one of my vent fans and we were able to camp last month in 90degree weather and keep the unit in the mid 70's. As was mentioned earlier Winnebago's are very well made and their website is a wealth of knowledge for used units as you can download all the manuals and parts lists from their website, which is AWESOME!

Fleetwood will email you all the plumbing and electrical drawings as well if you send then the FIN (Fleetwood Identification #) These are things you definitely want if you are to work on things yourself, which is really a requirement for RV life unless you are just filthy rich and want to spend piles of cash on RV Techs.

Generators mostly come in Gas/Diesel some are propane fired and I would avoid these units.

Check roof for leaks and sidewall delamination, which would indicate poor maintenance and possible water damage. RV roofs are either rubber or fiberglass...Winnebago uses fiberglass, the other I had were rubber and both were recoated using a liquid EPDM product that is very expensive, but basically gives you a new roof for about $700, where as a new roof install would be 3-5K You have to keep up maintenance on the roof, check it at least once a month for cuts/cracks in the caulking or rubber if your driving the unit as 1 tree branch cuts the roof and you can get a big leak that causes a lot of damage if not taken care of properly.

Tires as mentioned before are very important as well to maintain and have checked. Verify tire by date code on the tire, they have a 4 digit number signifying week/year they were made. Most RV;s will not have tread issues as they are not driven enough but will have dry rot issues in the side walls. Invest in a tire pressure monitoring system as well. My TPMS has saved me 4 times over the years where we got a small leak and I was able to stop and repair the tire before having catastrophic damage. One was on my tow dolly, so I have pressure monitors on all RV tires, Tow Dolley and rear car tires.

Sorry for the long message, but just giving you some things to thing about. If you have any specific questions please respond here and I'll answer if I can.
I think you hit the nail on the head. I've considered an RV as well and I came down here: There are two ways to go. A) you have to learn how to fix and update these things yourself or B) You are going to spend a lot of money which is hard to cost justify against just staying in a hotel.

The exceptions being places where you can camp and is much more convenient than a hotel. I am thinking a PSU tailgate, motor race infield, or some place in the middle of nowhere (painted desert, for example). More often than not, you are parked in a Walmart parking lot.

The guy that got me interested has one in the Keys (FL) right next to his fishing boat. His outfit probably cost him $300k, the boat is in the $75k and pays over $100/night for the spot. The guy is absolutely loaded so it isn't an issue for him. He also has a 60+ foot boat on lake erie he uses as a hotel, basically.

End of the day, if you have the time, skill and money....like just about everything else. If you have limited time, skilz and/or money you've got to call your shots.
 
I’ve been coming up to speed on the RV market also. Know what you want out of it. A must for me would be an outside kitchen and for the wife it’s bunk beds (That convert to a closet) to take the grandkids places. The more slide outs the better so you have more room if you’re stuck inside on bad weather days. Also a satellite TV set up. Lots of storage underneath because you don't want to move things inside all the time to get to something. I’m looking at class C about 36’ gas instead of diesel so the engine is up front incase anything hits it and I’m more familiar with fixing gas engines.
If you haven’t spent time in one I would recommend renting one for a week if so to make sure it’s the life for you.
We’ve been to Roo and firefly in the 24’ class C rental. It’s great fun.
 
There is some excellent advice here so far. We are on our 3rd RV. Just remember that an RV is just a "road boat," but with 10x of the problems of a boat. You should rent one for week to see if you like it.

24 foot is too small in my opinion for two reasons:
1. You find it tough to get 4 people in there or even 2 people and dogs
2. The shorter the wheelbase, the tougher they are to drive. You will find yourself getting blown all over the road. Larger and heavier rigs are so much easier to drive. I would look at something with a minum of 34' if you plan on taking it on long trips.

They average ownership of an RV is about 5 years before they get traded/sold.

We went from a 34' 5th wheel to a 36' Class A gasser (Monaco) and now have a 40' truck conversio (freightliner diesel). Fith wheels have way more space.

Why not consider a 5th wheel.
I think he's looking for a 24' because he's looking to tow his boat which is like towing another camper. (mentioned boat ramp in earlier post)
 
I think you hit the nail on the head. I've considered an RV as well and I came down here: There are two ways to go. A) you have to learn how to fix and update these things yourself or B) You are going to spend a lot of money which is hard to cost justify against just staying in a hotel.

The exceptions being places where you can camp and is much more convenient than a hotel. I am thinking a PSU tailgate, motor race infield, or some place in the middle of nowhere (painted desert, for example). More often than not, you are parked in a Walmart parking lot.

The guy that got me interested has one in the Keys (FL) right next to his fishing boat. His outfit probably cost him $300k, the boat is in the $75k and pays over $100/night for the spot. The guy is absolutely loaded so it isn't an issue for him. He also has a 60+ foot boat on lake erie he uses as a hotel, basically.

End of the day, if you have the time, skill and money....like just about everything else. If you have limited time, skilz and/or money you've got to call your shots.

That is my favorite part of the RV...camping at the Beav on a football weekend, using for my boys travel baseball, races, etc....being able to boondock and have all the amenities is awesome. I also have wife that likes to drive it as long as we are on a highway and an in motion satellite dish with directv! I love my in motion dome! can watch tv literally anywhere, never worry about missing a game or anything even while out on the road doing other stuff.

I have definitely learned a lot over the 8 -9 years of ownership and my only wish I would have gotten one sooner as it has been a great experience overall.
 
My initial thoughts:
24’
diesel
pull a jeep wrangler or such
4wd
generator size (need help here)
living room pull out
needs to sleep 4 adults

We are budgeting $60k and want to buy before thanksgiving. Which class do you suggest? (Sprinters are too small) Which manufacturer? Which powertrain? Anything to avoid at all costs?
We’d be traveling the country fall winter and spring.

Cheers.
The Rick (me)
There is no perfect RV. What ever you decide there will be compromises.

Storage is a huge concern. Many smaller models don't have much underneath storage. RV's that have a pass through underneath are great for larger items including fishing gear, rafts etc. Don't underestimate how much storage you will need.
Many State and National Parks will have a 30 ft max length on the motorhome to use their camping sites. That's because the Parks are older and when built camping was in tents, tent trailers, and small trailers.

Check the roof and make sure all seals are good. Professionally done is. best. RV's have a problem with leaks , delamination and dry rot. Reseal and touchup at least once a year.

I've owned 2 class C's. IMO 24 ft is too small for 4 people. Storage will be extremely tight. Shorter wheelbase drives better but the small size is limiting especially if you travel for any length of time.

Consider leveling at a campsite and how often you move camp sites.. Reefers and propane use needs to be on level ground. You will be doing this manually unless you have auto leveling

With 60K as your price point, I would buy a trailer and pull it. Granted it doesn't have the cache of rolling down the road in a self contained RV, but you can get an excellent product for your price range, a better sized vehicle with good storage and only have 1 motor vehicle to care for. When camping, drop the trailer, level it and use the pull vehicle to sight see and explore.

Some ideas: Lance trailers - note the 3 ft slide out vs other brands. These are extremely well built, are 4 season and hold their value. Class C: Lazy Daze. I owned a 26.5 mid bath. These are well built and hold their value. Hard to find . Built on a Ford F450 chassis w/. V10 engine. Great engine but 9 - 10 mpg.
Class A: Tiffin Allegro Breeze. Pretty fancy and expensive but they can come with a Diesel engine so a higher mileage unit might work. They used to make av 28 foot but I'm not sure they go that short any more.
Very nice high end rig but a whole different animal than the other suggestions.

There is a saying I was told when I purchased my first RV..." if you're not fixing you are not RVing"!

BUY quality. Lots of junk out there. Enjoy!
 
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We have had 3 motorhomes over the last 9 years...Just traded up 2 months ago, so I have lots of experience with these things now. When we first bought one I found it on Ebay and drove over 4 hours to pick up, never drove or had anything like it before, so was quite a learning experience and can give you several things to look at....

Our first RV was a 95 Pace Arrow 35' made by Fleetwood RV, No slides, Ford V8 gas powered with 32K miles. Was a good unit and kept for 3 years with no major problems. Gas engines are extremely loud and in a class A set right next to you when you are driving and give off tremendous amount of heat.

Our second RV was a 2000 Gerogie Boy Landau 36' with Cummins diesel engine and 1 slide out. Solid unit for running just needed a lot of minor work inside to replace flooring as the carpet was terrible. We kept that for 5 years and traveled all over the east coast with no major issues.

What we just got was a 40' Winnebago Ultimate Advantage with 3 slides, got a real good deal, which was surprising given the tight market that was mentioned, so my initial thought was whats wrong with the unit....I am now working through those issues, but since I can fix most things myself and I have a lot of experience working on these things now I figured even if I have to put in 10K I got a good deal and it looks like its going to cost about 5K to get everything working the way it should, so I am pleased with the deal unless I Find out some other issues.

The things most important to check on a used unit....

If you go diesel mileage really isn't important as the engine/transmission setup will most likely outlive all the other components on the coach no matter the age. Cummins and CAT are the common diesel engines you would find in a class A. Obviously if you look at an older unit you may be able to get a good deal...as long as your handy to make some repairs.

The unit we purchase has a basement AC unit and it was blowing cold when we picked it up, but never cooled the coach...which I am sure is why the previous owners traded the unit in Florida...was a bear getting home this summer in 90 degree heat! I found out the unit has 2 compressors and one has a small leak and is freezing up the coils due to low R22...The cost for a complete new unit is 2600, but repairing this unit myself will probably cost a couple hundred. Problem is getting it out to work on...In the interim I added a rooftop unit and removed one of my vent fans and we were able to camp last month in 90degree weather and keep the unit in the mid 70's. As was mentioned earlier Winnebago's are very well made and their website is a wealth of knowledge for used units as you can download all the manuals and parts lists from their website, which is AWESOME!

Fleetwood will email you all the plumbing and electrical drawings as well if you send then the FIN (Fleetwood Identification #) These are things you definitely want if you are to work on things yourself, which is really a requirement for RV life unless you are just filthy rich and want to spend piles of cash on RV Techs.

Generators mostly come in Gas/Diesel some are propane fired and I would avoid these units.

Check roof for leaks and sidewall delamination, which would indicate poor maintenance and possible water damage. RV roofs are either rubber or fiberglass...Winnebago uses fiberglass, the other I had were rubber and both were recoated using a liquid EPDM product that is very expensive, but basically gives you a new roof for about $700, where as a new roof install would be 3-5K You have to keep up maintenance on the roof, check it at least once a month for cuts/cracks in the caulking or rubber if your driving the unit as 1 tree branch cuts the roof and you can get a big leak that causes a lot of damage if not taken care of properly.

Tires as mentioned before are very important as well to maintain and have checked. Verify tire by date code on the tire, they have a 4 digit number signifying week/year they were made. Most RV;s will not have tread issues as they are not driven enough but will have dry rot issues in the side walls. Invest in a tire pressure monitoring system as well. My TPMS has saved me 4 times over the years where we got a small leak and I was able to stop and repair the tire before having catastrophic damage. One was on my tow dolly, so I have pressure monitors on all RV tires, Tow Dolley and rear car tires.

Sorry for the long message, but just giving you some things to thing about. If you have any specific questions please respond here and I'll answer if I can.
Super solid post bro THANKS
 
My initial thoughts:
24’
diesel
pull a jeep wrangler or such
4wd
generator size (need help here)
living room pull out
needs to sleep 4 adults

We are budgeting $60k and want to buy before thanksgiving. Which class do you suggest? (Sprinters are too small) Which manufacturer? Which powertrain? Anything to avoid at all costs?
We’d be traveling the country fall winter and spring.

Cheers.
The Rick (me)

I will bet you $100 you don’t buy an RV by Thanksgiving. Book ‘em Dano.
 
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Looks like you’d be looking at pre-owned as $60k won’t buy much, no less a oil-burner....

Your coach will likely have an onboard genset from the factory, which will be rated for anything you have... So don’t expect to have to be forced to make any generator decisions

As you need to sleep only 4, sounds like you would not be looking at Class-C (which is good, as the overhead bunk is always a long-term liability)... Class A is where you want to be... but 24’ is tiny... 28’ would be the smallest you’d want if you expect a separate bedroom from the living space (believe me -you want that)

4WD?!?!? Why? You will not find that in a typical Class A, C, or even B .... not to mention you won’t need it... rock-hopping a motorhome is not a good idea - unless you‘ve got a rental ;)

all RVs, whether you’re looking at standard brands like Jayco/Coachmen, or all the way up to Airstream, use the same systems (Atwood hot water tanks, Suburban furnaces, Dometic or Norcold fridges, Dometic or Coleman A/C, Thetford toilets, Onan gensets) and none are really screwed (stapled) together with anything resembling decent craftsmanship - so don’t get your expectations too high... sexiness of the premium models is gonna be skin deep / lipstick... as those leather couches etc are more than likely bonded leather and will look like crap in a few seasons of normal use... likewise even upgraded cabinetry isn’t really well made...

i’ve owned a couple rv’s (motorhomes) over the past dozen years - gotten my hands dirty working on mine / upgrading / troubleshooting ...

will be happy to answer any questions
Now that is an RV man talking! I didn’t understand any of that but I am incredibly impressed!
 
You won’t need (or find) 4wd .... any Class C or Class A will have a full truck frame with a full-floating rear & duallies... would have ZERO problem on a boat-ramp...

if you expect to 4 season - you’ll need a RV with a cold-weather package (heated / fully weatherized freshwater / grey / blackwater tanks) ... that’s a very specific package that will be difficult (but not impossible) to find on the used market ... even moreso now with RV sales being crazy and low inventory....

RV’s are heavy duty trucks... weigh in at 12,000+ lbs ... and with duallies & RWD you’d have little difficulty in snow... the problem will be finding a campground to host you in the offseason
Once again I’m baffled but impressed! Then again my wife thinks The Marriott is camping And I haven’t won that argument. This quite a great thread.
 
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I will bet you $100 you don’t buy an RV by Thanksgiving. Book ‘em Dano.
Just wait until your Boy blocks up the head with a massive multiple Maine Lobster roll Deuce and shuts the journey down like a rogue elephant in the streets of Nairobi.

I can hear Mom’s screaming now.... Marriott Marriott, from now on, sell this damn thing!
 
Just wait until your Boy blocks up the head with a massive multiple Maine Lobster roll Deuce and shuts the journey down like a rogue elephant in the streets of Nairobi.

I can hear Mom’s screaming now.... Marriott Marriott, from now on, sell this damn thing!

Can't get this visual out of my head. Thanks tgar!!
 
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What about one of the newer style truck bed campers? They're pretty fancy these days including popouts, but would let you have the 4wd.
 
Lots of good advice on here. I too have owned different campers (1 motorhome, 1 travel trailer, 3 5th wheels). You are getting some great advice. I'll add a few of my thoughts. I wouldn't go all out on the first one. Find something reasonably priced that you think fits what you're looking for. In all likelihood one of two things will happen, #1 your wife will decide this isn't all it's cracked up to be and you'll be selling and done with camping in 2-3 years, or #2 you'll really get the bug and decide your going all in. At that point you'll have an idea of what your wants and needs really are. You may find things like outdoor kitchens, bunkhouses, and diesel engines, may or not be important. It's kind of like me and getting married, the first time around you think have it all figured out and know exactly what you want.... you know the rest of the story.

The first time around, I wouldn't go new but I also wouldn't go super old either. I'd look for something around a 2000 - 2010 year will relatively low miles. Water damage is always a huge issue. Check the roof, windows, floor really well. If you can find one that has been garage kept that really helps. Lots of older people always looking to unload really well kept motorhomes for fractions of what a new one costs. You don't need to spend $60,000 to try camping. Spend $15,000 - $30,000 first. Either way when you decide to sell or move up, which you will, you won't lose your ass getting rid of what you have. Buy a new one and you will. GUARANTEED!!!

A couple other things, you probably don't need diesel, which cuts your cost and increases your potential inventory. Make sure it has at least one slide and preferably 2 or 3. And as others have said 24' is really small, there's a learning curve to driving an RV but they really aren't as bad as you think.
 
Looks like you’d be looking at pre-owned as $60k won’t buy much, no less a oil-burner....

Your coach will likely have an onboard genset from the factory, which will be rated for anything you have... So don’t expect to have to be forced to make any generator decisions

As you need to sleep only 4, sounds like you would not be looking at Class-C (which is good, as the overhead bunk is always a long-term liability)... Class A is where you want to be... but 24’ is tiny... 28’ would be the smallest you’d want if you epxpect a separate bedroom from the living space (believe me -you want that)

4WD?!?!? Why? You will not find that in a typical Class A, C, or even B .... not to mention you won’t need it... rock-hopping a motorhome is not a good idea - unless you‘ve got a rental ;)

all RVs, whether you’re looking at standard brands like Jayco/Coachmen, or all the way up to Airstream, use the same systems (Atwood hot water tanks, Suburban furnaces, Dometic or Norcold fridges, Dometic or Coleman A/C, Thetford toilets, Onan gensets) and none are really screwed (stapled) together with anything resembling decent craftsmanship - so don’t get your expectations too high... sexiness of the premium models is gonna be skin deep / lipstick... as those leather couches etc are more than likely bonded leather and will look like crap in a few seasons of normal use... likewise even upgraded cabinetry isn’t really well made...

i’ve owned a couple rv’s (motorhomes) over the past dozen years - gotten my hands dirty working on mine / upgrading / troubleshooting ...

will be happy to answer any questions
Excellent post......if I may ask about the actual usage....is the OP retired and plans on traveling 100+ days per year...or is this a prestige purchase and might have the R V parked at a resort? If you are not doing extensive traveling....choose wisely between gas and diesel. The upkeep and maintenance for a diesel is about 4x as much compared to gas. And Lord help you to find a competent diesel mechanic. At 60k for a class A you are looking used....and as Massimo stated 24' is rare....maybe a Minnie Winnie (Winnebago). Best used would be Itasca, Holiday Rambler, Bluebird, Coachman....for fun....look at used GMC and FMC....remember that towing your 4wd Jeep places strain on the transition.
One last question.....does the Jeep have easy driveshaft removal, or will it be riding on a trailer?
You can get good buys at public auto auctions..(repos) but it is buyer be ware
 
Lots of good advice on here. I too have owned different campers (1 motorhome, 1 travel trailer, 3 5th wheels). You are getting some great advice. I'll add a few of my thoughts. I wouldn't go all out on the first one. Find something reasonably priced that you think fits what you're looking for. In all likelihood one of two things will happen, #1 your wife will decide this isn't all it's cracked up to be and you'll be selling and done with camping in 2-3 years, or #2 you'll really get the bug and decide your going all in. At that point you'll have an idea of what your wants and needs really are. You may find things like outdoor kitchens, bunkhouses, and diesel engines, may or not be important. It's kind of like me and getting married, the first time around you think have it all figured out and know exactly what you want.... you know the rest of the story.

The first time around, I wouldn't go new but I also wouldn't go super old either. I'd look for something around a 2000 - 2010 year will relatively low miles. Water damage is always a huge issue. Check the roof, windows, floor really well. If you can find one that has been garage kept that really helps. Lots of older people always looking to unload really well kept motorhomes for fractions of what a new one costs. You don't need to spend $60,000 to try camping. Spend $15,000 - $30,000 first. Either way when you decide to sell or move up, which you will, you won't lose your ass getting rid of what you have. Buy a new one and you will. GUARANTEED!!!

A couple other things, you probably don't need diesel, which cuts your cost and increases your potential inventory. Make sure it has at least one slide and preferably 2 or 3. And as others have said 24' is really small, there's a learning curve to driving an RV but they really aren't as bad as you think.

take it from me... 2000-2010 is “super old” in many respects...

some snooty rv campgrounds won’t welcome units> 10yrs old
 
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